Zeus & Artemis & Aphrodite Villa Zakynthos Greece

Debbie Hills has lived as a tour rep on Zakynthos for eight years. "The island is a pleasure to live on and show people," says Debbie before our trip around the coast near The Olive Groves.
At just over 400 square kilometres, Zakynthos is small enough to be able to explore in a few days, and big enough to have distinct regions and landscapes. Debbie lives a few minutes from The Olive Groves near the southern coast of the island and our day touring with her proves just how varied yet accessible Zakynthos is.

First things first, a spot of lunch. "Driving along you'll always find somewhere worth stopping for a bite to eat," says Debbie as we pull over at one of the numerous mobile kiosks where you can enjoy freshly barbequed food. "It's where the Greeks take a break, under the olive trees," she explains. After trying a mouth-watering chicken souvlaki � a Greek speciality, we continue to buzzing Keri Beach for a well-earned cool drink. Debbie recommends the Rock Caf� facing the beach. "Keri Beach is a great place for families, and in my opinion the working harbour is the best the island has to offer," says Debbie who's drinking a local speciality � thick iced coffee (frapp�).

"During the summer months beaches like Keri are busy, but never packed. After September the season really slows down and until the following May, the whole island changes gear and basically relaxes," comments our guide. In fact like many of the Greek Islands, during off-season much of the tourist infrastructure of the smaller towns and resorts grinds to a halt � great for deserted beaches and peaceful strolls through the gnarly olive groves.

Leaving the beach behind we climb up the hill to picture-box Keri Village, passing the highly recommended La Bruschetta Italian restaurant on the way. Here, even in the height of a summer heat-wave, the landscape is fertile and varied � olive groves interspersed by vineyards. "The mild climate and the plentiful winter rainfall ensure we have really dense vegetation. Almonds, currants, grapes, citrus fruit and of course olives are everywhere," says Debbie. "If you're driving up this way, you must see the views from Keri Lighthouse," recommends our guide. She wasn't wrong; the sweeping cliffs and the milky blue sea below are a truly breathtaking sight. On the day we were there, the cooling, ethereal sea mist rolling in from the Ionian made the whole experience one never to be forgotten.

Driving eastbound along the coast, we pass the island of Marathonisi high on the horizon. "The island is home to some of our favourite locals, the turtles," quips Debbie. She takes us to the golden sands of Gerakas Beach, on the southeast point of Zakynthos where turtle nesting areas are clearly marked and avoided amongst the deckchairs and sandcastles. "It is really wonderful to see how the tourists respect the work of the turtle conservationists, it's really tourism and nature working well together."

Finally we turn north to the island�s capital � Zakynthos Town. "This is the sort of laidback place where you can just order a long drink, sit at a shady bar in the square and watch life go by," says Debbie. "If your looking for a really interesting and quirky slice of local history and culture make sure you�re here in August when they parade the mummified body of St Dennis (the Patron Saint of Zakynthos)."

Debbie also suggests an evening walk up Bochali Hill behind Zakynthos Town. "I'd also definitely recommend the ice creams and coffees up there and the beautiful views of the town and island," says Debbie as our tour comes to an end. Next time we're back on the island our genial local guide will take us the other direction from The Olive Groves to the wilder west coast of Zakynthos � shipwrecks ahoy!

Andrew Morris is a UK-based freelance journalist, travel writer and editor who has been published internationally in both newspapers and magazines as well as online.