At long last, I finally scheduled a Trip to South America. Having Started with the Intention of covering as many Countries as Possible (in a 2-3 Month long Trip), I winnowed the list to Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador. The First two to observe the Indian Cultures (Aymara & Quechua Speaking Incas) and the last to follow the footsteps of Charles Darwin (after 160+ years) and visit the Galapagos Islands. I booked the INCA EMPIRE tour through GAP Adventures based in Toronto, Canada. (http://www.gap.ca (or) 800-465-5600) which would start in La Paz, Bolivia and end in Lima, Peru. I had booked a week long cruise of the Galapagos Islands from Galasam Tours (http://www.galasam.com.ec/) through their USA based agent, Safari Centre. (Safari Centre was the company that helped me with my African Safari last year and I was quite happy with their Service). (http://www.safaricenter.com/) I would have to arrange International flights on my own. The Internal flights were Included in the Tour Cost.
The cost for the Inca Empire (from Bolivia to Lima, Peru) was US$ 1302, which included an optional night, at Macchu Picchu Ruinas and also the Airfare between Cusco and Lima. The cost for the 1-week Galapagos Cruise was US$ 1309, which included the Airfare from Quito to Baltra, Galapagos. All meals were included on the Galapagos Cruise.
I had planned to do this Trip in the Month of May when the rainy season would have ended in Bolivia. This Trip was Unique, since I had decided to QUIT my Job and do some full-time Travelling without the nauseating thought of returning to work after my Vacation. South America was to be the First Leg of my extended Travel during which I would also Visit Europe and Asia. Hope it works out ! (And I get a Job after wandering around the Various Continents)
With the Exception of Bolivia, the Peruvian and Ecuadorean Visas were easy to Obtain. In the Case of Bolivia, my Visa had to be approved at La Paz before being stamped in Atlanta. I left Memphis during the last week of April and headed to Atlanta. The Bolivian Authorities had approved my Visa and the Consulate in Atlanta stamped my Passport and the Trip was set.
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My Adventure began even before I set foot in La Paz. I was to Board a Flight from Atlanta to Miami and then connect there to La Paz, Bolivia. On reaching the Airport (in Atlanta), and subsequently checking in, I was informed that my Flight would be delayed by 90 Minutes. Since I was sure to miss my Connection to La Paz, if I continued on this Flight, I asked the American Airlines Representative to look for Other Airlines departing to Miami around the Originally Scheduled time. There was a United Airlines flight departing to Miami about 50 Minutes after the American Airlines Flight (as Per the Original Schedule). It was Scheduled to Depart on time and its arrival in Miami would give me around 50 Minutes to Catch my Flight to La Paz. As it was half-empty, I obtained the endorsement from American and booked myself on the United Flight to Miami. Now I had to find a way to get my Checked in Baggage from the American Airlines flight onto United Airlines and Inform United of my Connecting Flight in Miami, so that they would transfer it back to American Airlines in Miami. (I was scheduled to fly American all the way - from Atlanta to La Paz)
I went back to the American Airlines ticketing Counter and explained the Situation. The Representative took my United Flight Number and the Subsequent American Flight Number (to La Paz). She then radioed the Baggage Handling Area to have someone Pull my Bag (I had to mention the Color / Shape of the Bag) and transfer it to United Airlines. After a wait of 15 Minutes, she informed me that the transfer had been done and since my Bag contained the Tag for La Paz (with the American flight Number), United Airlines would transfer it in Miami to the La Paz bound flight. I confirmed the same with the United Airlines Agents before boarding the flight in Atlanta and after landing in Miami.
Though I was told that it would happen that way, I can be sure only when I see my Bag in La Paz. The Flight to Bolivia departed on time. I managed to get as much sleep as possible during the 6-hour flight.
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We landed at La Paz about 20 minutes earlier than scheduled. The Bolivian Authorities give all tourists a Green Colour Card that is to be given back to the Immigration Authorities when leaving the Country. Similar to the I-94 form given (by the US Immigration Service) to all tourists entering the USA.
Customs clearance was quick. Then I waited for the moment of Truth (at the Baggage Carousel). Was quite pleased to see my Bag arrive. After exchanging $60 (@ 5.6 Bolivianos to a Dollar), I had a Cab take me to my Hotel (Residential Rosario, Casilla 442, La Paz. Phone: 591 2 325 348 - Includes the International Dialing Code). The Cab driver wanted 50 Bolivianos. Not knowing the usual fare, I did not want to haggle with him at 5 in the Morning. I agreed and we set off. The Hotel and the City and 20 Minutes drive away from the Airport. The Airport is located in El Alto, which is 400 Metres (1250 Feet) above the City of La Paz.
Though the Guide Book (South American Handbook) mentions that the Best views of the snow covered Mountains around La Paz are obtained from a Descending Airplane, I did not get to see it since it was quite dark when we landed. But the drive from the Airport to La Paz was quite a Welcome. It seemed as if the clouds were concealing the City Below. As we continued to descend, the City gradually appeared into view.
On reaching the Hotel, I was given a twin-bedded room after announcing that I was a member of a GAP Group. I had the room to myself until my roommate arrived. Since it was to be an extended vacation, I had decided to save some money by opting for Shared accommodations, rather than pay the Single Supplement. After a shower, headed to the Hotel restaurant for a Continental Breakfast (B$ 19 - 19 Bolivianos). One of the Cures for Altitude Sickness is to have Tea made from Cocoa Leaves. I wonder whether it Cures Sickness due to High Altitude or helps you get Higher !
Since they were observing May Day today, almost all establishments were closed. Picking up a Mini-Map of the City (from the Hotel Desk), I started my Self-Guided walking tour. After walking for 10 Minutes, I was made to realize that this is Indeed the Highest Capital City. I started with the Cathedral of San Francisco. It is more than 400 years old and the exterior reflected the age. The Interior was grand. The Enormous Altar was covered with Gold Carving / Plating. Since there was a Service going on at the time of my Visit, I did not spend much time taking pictures of the Interior. I headed towards the Plaza del Estudiante.
After a brisk 20-minute walk, I found out that the Tourist Information Office was closed as well. Since I spotted the Snow Covered Peaks of Mount Illimani towering (6000 Metres / 20000 Feet) over the City, I decided to walk a bit more to get a clearer view. After another 20 Minutes Walk, I reached the American Bridge. (Purely by Accident) The View from here was Spectacular. The Mountain Ranges were clearly visible and the view of the City was quite good as well. The Houses seem to start far below the Bridge (where I was Standing) and continued up the mountainside, until I could see houses far above me.
After taking some Pictures, I headed back to the City Center. When I reached the Plaza del Estudiante, I was completely out of breath. To my rescue comes an Internet Café. The Charge for an hour of usage was B$15 (Approx. US$3) Sent Messages to family and friends during the hour. Since the time was around Noon, I headed back to the Hotel for a brief rest before setting out to cover some more parts of the City. I had my Lunch at Gloria's restaurant located in (where else) Hotel Gloria. Since this was quite close to my Hotel, I did not have to walk much. The fact that this is a Vegetarian restaurant suited me perfectly. Did not like what was on offer, though. After picking at my food for an hour, I set out to Plaza Murillo, which happens to be the Center of La Paz.
Plaza Murillo is a short walk from Gloria's. The Main buildings are a Cathedral, the Presidential Palace and the Legislature Building (Palacio Legislativo). I was not admitted into any of the Buildings. The Presidential Palace and the Palacio Legislativo are quite Impressive Buildings conforming to the Spanish Colonial Architecture.
The Clear Blue Sky filled with Intermittent White Clouds Provided the Perfect Backdrop for many of my Pictures. Never seen another Place quite like it. Did not have to use the Polarizing filter on my Camera (to enhance Blueness of the sky). From Plaza Murillo, I walked to Plaza Posnasky. This is supposedly an Archaeological site, but from what I observed, all the Statues here are re-constructions of the Originals. Maybe the Originals have been destroyed (or) have been Stashed away someplace (Perhaps in a Museum (or) a Private Collection).
As I was more Interested in observing the Native people (especially the Colourfully dressed Incan Descendants), I decided to skip the Museums. Since there was not much else to do, I decided to take a long walk back to my Hotel that would take me past the Central Bus & Train Stations of La Paz. This turned out to be a Good Move. As I walked along Calle Yungas, I was able to get a clear view of the Snow Covered Mountains by turning back from time to time. However, the BEST view of the Snow Covered Peaks came as I walked along Avenida Montes. This was more an accident. At a Traffic Crossing, I looked back to see if any Traffic was headed my way, before crossing the road. This was the best View of the Snow Covered Peaks (as a Backdrop to the City of La Paz) I have had all day long.
At the end of Avenida Montes, I decided to take Calle Echeverria to see the Train Station. This was probably the Steepest Walk I had all day long and I thought my Lungs were going to burst with all the Heavy Breathing I was doing. Any one of you reading this and visiting La Paz later should try this. I eventually did make it to the Train Station (another fine example of Spanish Colonial Architecture) and then to the Hotel. I met my roommate (an Australian) who was split-up from his girlfriend for the night because of some screw-up in the allocation of rooms.
Caught a little bit of Sleep. Wrote some diary before heading to the lobby around 7:15 PM for a meeting of the Tour Group. Met our Tour Leader Barbara (a Swiss National who has decided to live in these parts and support herself by being a Tour Leader for GAP) and had a meeting with the entire Group. There were 11 People in the Group. Looks like I may wind-up with a Single room to myself. Since every restaurant in the city was closed, we decided to have dinner at the Hotel restaurant. Chatted with other members of the Group comprising of Australians / English / Canadians / American and Moi. A motley group (at first sight, anyway) but we seemed to get along well. We leave tomorrow at 8:30 AM for a tour of one of the ruins near La Paz. |
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