Since the night air was quite chill, most of the folks shivered all the way during the ride back to Copacabana. Take a warm Jacket with you.
We returned to Copacabana around 8:30 PM and set out to find a restaurant. We found a small family run restaurant that served both Vegetarian and non-vegetarian food. We had a good leisurely dinner before returning to our hotel around 10:30 PM. It has been a good day. We leave for Taquile Island tomorrow.
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Did not sleep well last night. After breakfast, we departed for Taquile Island around 9 AM. It was a 40-minute ride to the Peruvian Border. Realized that I did not require a VISA to enter Peru. Maybe the Consulate in D.C. wanted to make some money and hence they forced me to take a VISA. At the border, I exchanged almost all of my Bolivianos into Peruvian Soles. The exchange rate was 2 Bolivianos to a Peruvian Sole. (Approx. 3 Peruvian Soles for US$ 1). We crossed the Border into a Peruvian town called Yunguyo. Stopped there for 20 Minutes to get some essentials. I obtained bottled water and Chocolates. While the rest of the group was at it, Barbara and me managed a ride around the Town Square in a Tri-cycle. Left Yunguyo to meet our ferry for Taquile Island. After a ride of 2 Hours we reached the Ferry Landing. Met the local guide, Edgar. He was young, knowledgeable and enthusiastic. Before we boarded the ferry, we took only the overnight bag required for our Stay in Taquile Island. The other Bag(s) were to be left in the Bus, which would take them to Puno and leave them at our Hotel. (We were to spend the night in Taquile Island before heading to Puno tomorrow)
The ferry ride to Taquile Island was around 2 hours. The entire ride was on Lake Titicaca. It was even more spectacular. I'll forever cherish the memories of boating on the highest navigable lake in the world. On reaching Taquile Island, we started the climb to the Top. 505 Steps. Probably the most grueling thing I have ever done in my life. Had to stop at least half-a-dozen times to catch my breath. Took an hour to reach the top. We then went in search of the house where we were to stay for the night. We were to stay with a local family. When we finally found the place, Barbara made the arrangements where the 3 men (in our group) were to stay in a large room, while the ladies were split up into 2 different rooms. After half an hour, we departed for a late lunch. Had some soup and salad. Some souvenir hunting, in a local artisan market followed this. I bought a waistband, worn by most Peruvian men. We visited the local school, where we observed the children partaking in the various activities, before heading to the smaller ruins on the Island. The Climb was not as difficult as the one in the morning. We went to the western edge of the Island to view the sunset and break open a bottle of wine to honour PachaMama (Mother Earth).
We spent around 45 minutes here before returning to the guesthouse. Dinner for me comprised of boiled potatoes and Salad ! Being a vegetarian is a tough act in these places. We started playing hearts around 9 PM. In addition to our group members, a Frenchman who was travelling with his parents joined us. We had a great time and played till 11:30 PM, before turning in for the night. Before turning in, we went out to take a look. Lake Titicaca looked spectacular, under the half-moon light. Even though it was not Cold (despite the altitude), I did not sleep well.
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Woke up at 6:45 AM and finished breakfast by 7:30 AM. We departed for the Major ruins around 8 AM. Edgar paced the climb quite well, that we hardly felt the stress. I have fallen completely in love with Titicaca. It was, as always, Spectacular. Edgar gave a detailed explanation of the Pre-Inca Practices / Culture. We returned to the guesthouse around 10:30 AM and we started the climb down to the ferry landing, around 11 AM. It took us around 30 minutes to reach the ferry landing. We departed from Taquile Island around Noon and headed to UROS, the Reed Island. We reached UROS around 2 PM. This island is made from reeds that float on water. Hence it is also known as the floating island. When you step off the ferry onto the island, you can feel the ground (reeds) sinking beneath one's feet. It has been deemed a National Site by the Peruvian Authorities. Around 4 or 5 families live on an Island. Their revenue comes from selling small handcrafted items to the tourists. With a view to helping them, I bought some souvenirs. We spent around 45 minutes here. Overall, it was a nice experience. We reached the dock at PUNO around 3 PM.
The Bus, which dropped us at the ferry landing yesterday, was waiting for us at the dock. After a 30-minute ride, we reached the hotel in PUNO (Hotel Pukara, Jr. libertad No. 328, Phone: 368488. E-mail: pukara@computextos.net) around 3:45 PM. ME and another member of the group agreed to pay an extra $20 to Edgar to take us to a Pre-Inca Site called Sillustani. After exchanging some cash and grabbing some snacks, we departed for Sillustani around 4 PM. We reached the site around 5 PM. This was a Pre-Inca and Inca Cemetery. Edgar explained the differences between the various tombs there. More often that not, the Inca merely built on top of an existing structure. When the outer layers were removed, the pre-Inca structure was revealed. It was quite Windy and it was COLD. It was a good trip.
On the way back, Edgar stopped at the miniature market in Puno. We strolled around for 30 minutes before returning to the hotel around 7:30 PM. After a good hot shower, I left for dinner around 8 PM. We went to a local Italian restaurant. We spent around 2 hours over dinner before turning in. We depart for Cusco tomorrow. The Train departs at 8 AM.
While surfing the TV, I came across a Detroit (Red Wings) / Colorado (Avalanche) hockey game. Even though this was time delayed, I decided to watch it since I did not know the result and since this was a play-off game. After a single overtime, Detroit (the team I was rooting for) won 3-2. Went to sleep at 2 AM. Disco music from a nearby club was wafting through the early morning air.
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I did manage to wake up at 6 AM and was ready by 7:15 AM. We departed for the Train Station around 7:20 AM. It was a 5-minute ride to the station. We managed to get 12 seats together, in the last coach of the train. Despite the dire warnings, that locals would be all over the train, our coach was filled with backpackers. The train departed on time. (8 AM) We reached Juliaca after 90-Minutes. An extra Coach was added to our train there. It was a unique experience. At times, I thought that the train was surely coming off the rails. It is a bumpy ride. We went in economy class. This was paid included in the trip cost. The Inca class costs an additional $24. It's and air-conditioned coach. There is also a pantry car attached to the train from where we ordered lunch.
We played hearts from 8 AM till Noon ! Following a brief siesta after Lunch, we played hearts for another couple of hours. Some in our group chose to read books. One of the advantages of travelling in a group is that one can always find a few people for any group activity. This is especially required during a 10 ½ - Hour Train Journey. After the Mid-way point of our journey, the train passes between the Occidental and the Oriental mountain ranges. The Mountain range on the left is green, while the mountain range on the right is snow capped. It was truly magnificent. As I mentioned earlier, this is a unique experience and one should NOT miss it.
The train reached Cusco on time. We took a cab to the hotel, (La Casona de San Augustin, Calle San Augustin 371. Phone: 252633.) Which was a 5-minute ride away. The Cost was S/- 2 (2 Peruvian Soles). After checking into the rooms, we gathered in the lobby, where we were introduced to the Inca Trail guide, Mauro. He briefed us for 20 minutes. Most of it did not apply to me, since I was not doing the hike to Macchu Picchu, but was taking the train. We left for dinner around 8 PM. We went to the Town Square first (to exchange some money) before going to a vegetarian restaurant. (La Waka de Cristal, Choqhechaca 132. Phone: 246175) It was a small restaurant and the food was good. I was famished and I did justice to whatever I ordered. We got back around 10 PM. We leave for Pisac Market & Ruins and Ollantaytambo tomorrow morning.
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Woke up around 7:30 AM and was ready by 8:30 AM. Dump my essentials for the overnight stay at Ollantaytambo into a small bag and left my larger bag in the hotel luggage room. After breakfast, I gave around 3 Kilos of Clothes for washing. The Charge for washing in these parts is based on weight. The Hotel was charging S/- 5 per kilo, which worked out to S/- 15 (US $5) for me. Met Mauro and Barbara and went over the finer details of my return to Cusco on my own tomorrow morning and the subsequent Train / Bus trip to Macchu Picchu, on May 12, 1999. I was told that someone from Mauro's Tour Company would pick me up from the hotel on Wednesday (May 12) morning and transport me to the station. I would be given the bus and train tickets at that time. Sounded good to me.
We left the hotel around 10 AM. Mauro knew what tourists like me wanted. He told us that we would stop for Photo Opportunities along the way and we could request any Photo Stops as well. We climbed out of the city of Cusco and headed towards Pisac. Along the way, Mauro pointed out some of the ruins that I was planning to visit during my 2-day stay in Cusco. Our initial views of the Cusco valley were excellent. Needless to say, a Photo Stop was done at each point. After approximately an hour of travelling, we left the Cusco Valley and entered the Sacred Valley, where the Urubamba River runs.
This has to be seen to be believed. Just kept clicking away. Had never seen anything quite like it. Though I had read a bit about the beauty of the Sacred Valley, what I encountered was beyond my wildest expectations. (Or maybe, I had NO expectations !) Even nature cooperated with us. It was a beautiful day. After 90-Minutes of driving we reach the ruins at Pisac. These were set amidst mountains with terraced sides. These terraces were apparently used for farming. We were each given a Tourist Pass costing US$10 that would allow us to see around a dozen ruins. Pisac, some ruins around Cusco and Ollantaytambo were among those Included. A great deal, even if you are visiting only half-dozen ruins.
The walk to the ruins is along a 4-feet wide path, cut along the side of the mountain. Sometimes there are steps cut into the rock as well. This is not as strenuous as the hike to Taquile Island. The ruins are wonderful. For the Incas to construct these structures must have required a major effort. |
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