The idea of traveling down the Amazon River began when I received a 'special offer' from Marine Expeditions Inc. of Toronto, Canada. I had previously traveled with them to Antarctica/Falklands and to Iceland/Greenland, and had enjoyed their tours.
It felt like it was 'really going to happen' when I met my cousin, Larry, at the Miami Airport and he was dressed in expedition khaki clothing. That evening as we lined up for the international flight check in we began to see many more travelers obviously headed for the Amazon. The tropics expedition traveler usually dresses in khaki attire, and of course wears those hats that are needed for sun and insect protection.
After arrival at Lima Peru's airport, at 4 a.m., local time, it was GREAT to see both our bags arrive on the luggage conveyer belt.
Our group of 62 was a surprise for the Marine Expeditions representative, who met us after we cleared customs. She had expected 28 passengers on this flight. It did not take her long to get another bus, and off we went for two hours at the Sheraton Lima Hotel. After a hot breakfast, a hot shower, and a change of clothes we traveled back to the domestic airport for the flight to Iquitos, Peru.
The city of Lima has an appearance of being very gray. The buildings have much soot and the sunlight must filter through the smog. I think what surprised me the most was the number of police on every block, and the fact that they were wearing bullet proof vests. There was an election going on in this country and I think the government expected trouble. The incumbent president had just received 49.8% of the vote and would have to stand for a runoff election. The news media had speculated that the current president was afraid to 'manage the ballot box' into the winning 50 %.
As we flew north and east from Lima we hoped to be able to see the Andes Mountains, but clouds prevented our seeing them. As we neared Iquitos we did start to see some of the rivers that feed the Amazona River Region. We exited the aircraft, via steps, and entered into the heat and humidity, WOW. While we waited for our luggage, a local tour company, Amazon Lodge & Safari, separated us into two groups. Larry and I ended up in a smaller group of 14 people. Our group was to go to the Amazon Lodge jungle camp which is located about 40 kilometers northeast of Iquitos, on the Yanayacu river. I think we got the better deal, because in this smaller group we got to know our fellow passengers very well.
We boarded a bus and were taken for a 30 minute highlight tour of the city of Iquitos, then went to the river where we boarded two motor boats for the 1 hour 10 minute journey to the Amazon Lodge. What a surprise, the entire lodge was located over water. This being the rainy season the rivers were very wide. The lodge was built up on stilts and had walkways between the dinning room and the string of thatched roofed cabins. We were quickly given our room keys and off we went to see what the accommodations looked like. There was no electricity, so kerosene lamps were lit for us each night. The shower and sink water was taken directly from the river. I did not shower until late on the second day, . We were provided drinking water that had been brought from Iquitos.
That same day we made our first journey out into the jungle by using motor boats. It was time to start putting on our insect repellant, 20 % Deet for our skin and 100 % Deet for the upper part of our socks. Our guide, Gilberto Guerra, is an excellent guide. He usually paddled, rather than use the boat engine, so that we could observe wildlife and the jungle at a slower pace. He knew the names of plants, birds and animals and had a genuine interest in birds. We visited the first native village, Yagua Indian, and were able to walk on ground again. The kids came out and asked if we had candy. Gilberto said that he had forgotten to ask us to bring candy, if we had any to spare, so none was given to the children. I now wonder if he forgot to ask us on purpose. I bet he did not want to turn the kids into beggars.
It was interesting to see how simple these people live. They did have a school teacher and an open school room building. Our guide told us that, through the donations of the tourists, they have been able to bring in some medications to remove tape worms from the people and provide some vaccinations.
Dinner that evening was by kerosene lamps in the dinning room and then off to bed early as most of us got very little sleep on the overnight flight to Lima. We woke early the next day to the loud sounds of the Macaws that were kept near the dining room.
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We spent the day doing several trips to villages and to native's homes along the rivers. Our early morning trip was quite good as the people in the home we visited had a pet sloth and snake to show us. This native also had a boat and took us for a ride on a pool of water behind his home. On this pond we pushed through the plants that floated on the water and those large circular pads of the Victoria Water Lily.
During the latter morning trip we journeyed through some heavy jungle, and our guide cut overhanging vines with his machete. We came out near a long covered bridge. This bridge connected the main river to an island that contained a school and a village. As we walked up the slight hill, from our landing site, we observed youngsters, about 5 years old, coming down to the river to wash out their cups. They were dressed in typical school uniforms. They must have just had milk as we saw some sacks of powdered milk in one of their classrooms.
One of our group offered to take a photograph of the class and mail a print back to the village. The teacher lined up all the kids and they all posed in front of the building. The highlight of this village visit was when one of our tourists entertained a group of children by telling them stories, in Spanish, and pretending to play a trombone by using his umbrella and making noises with his mouth. At one point he had them following him around the soccer field like pied piper.
In the afternoon we visited a native village where they put on a dance for us in costume. They also provided native music using drums and flutes. There were native made crafts for sale, I bought a seed necklace. The native men put on a blow gun show by shooting at a folded dollar bill. It took about 4 darts before someone hit the target. They then asked one of our group to try the blow gun. Margaret, about 70 years old, a retired school teacher took the blow gun and sent a dart right into the target. I now wonder if maybe her gun did not actually contain a dart and that one of the natives shot the dart into the target. It would have been something to see a tourist shoot that accurately on her first shot.
During our late afternoon boat ride we were out on a large expanse of the river during sunset. I was able to get a very nice photograph of the sunset with my point and shoot camera. During our return to the lodge we went through a downpour.
The rain cooled the temperature down and I went to dinner that evening in shorts and thongs. I had assumed that the rain sent the insects off and the next morning I had many bites around my ankles. I will never know if I got bitten while sitting in the dining room or in my cabin. It could have been bed bugs! Anyway this was the worst insect bite hit we had during the entire trip. I was not the only person to get bitten that evening.
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The next morning we were up early for a 7:30 a.m. boat ride back to Iquitos. We actually went past our dock, in Iquitos, in order to cruise by the floating village. There were hundreds of houseboats tied one to another. They even had streets (water canals) and some had electricity and TV sets playing. There was even a floating gasoline station. It was quite a sight.
After we returned to the tour company's office, I asked our guide, Gilberto Guerra, if I might be able to purchase a machete in a store nearby. He went with me to help translate, and make sure everything went well. I was able to buy a steel machete, with a nice plastic handle for only $3. I had them wrap it in paper and placed it into the back of my backpack until I could get it into my suitcase on the ship. I have a lot of difficult cacti to remove at my home in Arizona.
For the next couple of hours we were taken around town, again on a bus. We were taken to the local open market and stopped off at the local post office, so that some people could buy stamps and post cards. At noon we were taken to a restaurant for a good lunch, they even had a musical group play for us while we ate.
Next we walked to a nearby hotel lobby where we waited a couple of hours until the ship was able to receive us. During this time we met the ship's passengers that came up the Amazon. They told us that the food was very good, plenty of ice cream, the lectures were so-so and that one of the tourists on their group had been bitten by a monkey in one of the native villages. I guess too many tourists were standing too close to the monkey when one of them reached in to pet the monkey. That tourist would have to undergo the rabies shot treatment. We also met about 20 more passengers that had not booked the jungle camp, this swelled our downriver group to about 88 passengers.
If you are interested in a cruise out of Iquitos, I have heard that the following company is very good. For the best price, contact the owner Dirk Meijberg at Amazon Tours, 8700 West Flagler Street, Suite 190, Miami, FL 33174, 1- 800 - 423-2791.
The e-mail address for Amazon Lodge & Safari is amazonlodge@mixmail.com.
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Finally, about 4 p.m. we boarded the P/V Lyubov Orlova and found our way to cabin number 429. It was plenty spacious enough for two people, and there was enough hanging closet space. We had our own bathroom. This cabin would have been tight for 4 people, yes there were 2 bunk beds folded up against the walls. Marine Expeditions calls this ship the Marine Discovery, but actually it is named after a Russian movie star. The ship is owned by a Russian company, has a Russian crew, but the expedition staff is employed by Marine Expeditions Incorporated , located in Toronto, Canada. There were 10 MEI staff, and all could speak English.
The food was fairly good. As we arrived at the dinner tables each evening there was a large soup bowl, bread, and butter waiting for us. Our Russian waitresses delivered our meals very promptly. As soon as our soup bowls were empty our main course would be brought to us. We would have chosen one of the three dinner entrees during the lunch service. The waitresses were always pleasant, smiling and improving their English every day. Usually we could have seconds on dessert and I was surprised to arrive back home weighing the same as when I left.
All meals were on an open seating basis, this gave everyone a better chance to meet more people. |
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| Copyright © - "Roger Root" |
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