We arrive at the La Paz train
station in the early morning. As we left the train the porter asks for
'propina', a tip. We laugh, no blankets had been available through the
cold night.
La Paz is the highest capitol city in the world, 12,000 feet. We are
already acclimated from the altiplano. We find a hotel then spend the
day wandering the streets and arranging our transportation into Peru. The
main street lies on the bottom of the valley. The glacier capped Andes,
20,000 feet, are visible from the city center. The witches market offers
brews and concoctions to satisfy all needs. The women wear black felt
bowler hats. Frank does not get a seat to Miami. We will all go to Peru
by bus.
One last piece of business before we leave for Peru. We still have
a stick of dynamite and a bag of coca leaves. It would not be wise
to cross the border with them. Bill and I had passed a group of workers
at a construction site. I approach them speaking in Russian to confuse
them. I offer them the dynamite and coca as a gift. They look at me
with bewildered expressions. Since they do not take it from me, I leave
the items on their worktable and walk off.
Our room includes breakfast. We meet an American biologist who
is headed for the jungles of Bolivia to study frogs. He has already
discovered two new species. A van picks us up in front of the Hotel. We
pack in other travelers until it is full then climb out of the valley
leaving La Paz. Heading northwest towards Lake Titicaca we have a
sweeping view of the snow giants of the Andes. The altiplano is dry and
windswept. The other passengers are Americans who were also in Bolivia
for the eclipse.
Our first glimpse of Lake Titicaca is a blue shimmering on the horizon.
When we approach the shore at San Pablo it is an inland ocean of fresh
water. We leave the van and board a ferry after having our passports
checked by police. We are crossing a narrow portion of the Lake and are
still in Peru. On the other side we go to the toilet outside against a
wall, following the locals example. The van has been brought across
empty on a barge. We reboard and continue along the shore of the lake.
We see many islands. The water is a deep azure from the great depth. At
points we do not see the opposite shore. It is a magnificent lake.
We reach the town of Copacabana on the shore of the lake. Here we switch
to a luxury bus. Our first stop is the Peruvian border. We leave the
bus and clear Bolivian customs. At the Peruvian customs building we
receive visas in our passports. Now driving through Peru we see a series
of stockade-like buildings that might be prisons. The Sendora Luminosa
have been active in this area. The shore of the lake is marshy with
reeds. There are a flamboyance of pink flamingos along the lake edge.
The houses are adobe. The setting sun at this altitude casts a brilliant
red-orange light. We arrive in Puno during a festival of the devils. The
streets are packed with young people dressed up as El Diablo accompanied
by martial music.
We have missed our bus connection to Cusco. There will not be another
bus for 24 hours. A tout approaches us and offers assistance. I trust
him but, Frank is suspicious of his motives. We take Senior Fernando's
advice and find a hotel to spend the night. We have to force our way
across a street crowded with merry-makers. Fernando cautions us against
pickpockets. We buy air tickets for the next day to fly to Cusco. We
discover later that this was a good choice since the bus trip is the 'bus
from hell.'
We are up early to get a taxi to the airport which is 30 km. away.
At the airport everything went smoothly. It was a 30 minute
flight compared to a 12 hour bus ride. The landing at the airport was
great. We had a grand view of the main square and the cathedrals. We
took a taxi to the square where we obtained a room with one wall the
original Incan wall. Frank and Bill had to leave for Lima the next
morning so they immediately took off on a tour to Macchu Picchu. I had
another week so I stayed in town. Cusco was fascinating. A large
central square flanked by three Cathedrals with narrow cobblestone
streets, white washed buildings and Incan ruins.
At a restaurant I meet an American lady from Texas who I was to later
have over for dinner when I returned to San Diego. I went to the Faucet
Air office to get tickets for Bill and Frank for the next morning.
After talking to the manager I walked out with the tickets, it took about
an hour.
I walked up a steep cobble stoned street to the Incan ruins of
Sasquaywuaman. The stones were fitted together without mortar and were
high above Cusco with a commanding view. There were the usual hawkers
including men with llamas and a condor that tourists could be
photographed with. The lighting was great, the sun going in and out
lighting up the grass in front of the ruins. I found a 30 foot diameter
circle of stones, the Puma's eye. A couple from Alaska said that by
standing in the center and facing Machu Picchu one would become empowered
by magnetic resonances. I tried it but was not sensitive to the
experience.
I walked back into town with the couple. I took a different route
through the poor section. The smell of sewage was present. At the Plaza
de Armas the city lights were coming on. I returned to our triple room
with the Incan wall but, Bill and Frank had not returned. I went to a
restaurant where I met the American sisters. They returned to my room to
view the Incan room. The older sister flirted with me, she was slightly
drunk, the younger one dragged her off with plans for us to meet tomorrow
since we planned to share a room at the expensive Machu Picchu Hotel to
share the cost. Bill and Frank returned at 11 p.m.. They were excited
about the trip to Machu Picchu.
I was up early and had breakfast returning to wake up my partners. We
went to the airport together. Frank sold me one of his pepper spray
canisters for protection. 'Watch your back.' They were flying to Lima
then on to Miami, I had another week by myself in Peru. I walked all
over the city visiting the cathedrals and museums. I reserved a train
ticket to go to Machu Picchu the next day. I was up early for the train
ride. The route was through the Sacred valley of the Incas. Machu
Picchu was rediscovered in the early 20th century by an American. The
train deposited me at the base of the ridge where the ruins are located.
A bus goes up a dirt road to reach the foot of the ruins.
Machu Picchu has an incredible setting with rain forest mountains
surrounding the ancient city. I climbed the mountain behind the ruins
for a grand view. Rain squalls passed through the area, with the sun
going in and out. Returning to Cusco I spent the next 3 days taking day
trips into the sacred valley of the Incas. The whole area was a narrow
valley with snow covered peaks at the highest points. The most striking
place was the Incan ruins of Pisaq which were in a drier location than
Machu Picchu, there was cactus, but with a long scenic view. The ruins
were less touristed than Machu Picchu. I flew into Lima for a 2 day stay.
I had been warned of high street crime here because of the poverty, but it
was no worse than any American city.
The high points of Lima were the museums. The Museum of Gold had an
outstanding collection of relics both gold, and weapons from the Incas.
The Pottery museum had an extraordinary collection of mummies and erotic
pottery from the Incas.
At a chicken restaurant in Lima I was brought a white cardboard box after
my meal. There was a chirping and movement. There was a chick inside.
As a marketing ploy one was given to each customer. I declined mine.
My flight back to San Diego was fine. As soon as I was back home I was
downloading files from the NASA gopher site for data about the solar
eclipse on Oct. 24, 1995 which goes through Asia including India.
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