, I thanked them and hiked on a mile or so to where I could catch a ride.
The PNG national airline (Air Nuigini) uses the phrase 'Expect the Unexpected' in promoting travel to the country. I did expect the unexpected, and generally prepared for it by a full backpack of contingency supplies and equipment, including food, medicine, compass, maps, signal mirror, whistle, etc. Since robbery is fairly common when traveling between towns on the busier roads, I had anticipated being held up as well, and was prepared for that as best I could. Thus, I was not overly concerned when a group of us (about 15 natives and me, the only whiteskin) was stopped at gunpoint in an isolated area. As it turned out, however, the armed men were not seeking to steal, but to kill. Two members of their tribe had been killed the previous week by members of the tribe whose land we were traveling through. This band of five, equipped with one shotgun, one semi-automatic rifle, and several large knives, had entered the area and placed a log across the road at a well-selected spot. After several minutes with the shotgun about 3 feet away and aimed at my head, during which a tense interrogation of the others (none of which I understood) took place, we were allowed to continue after ascertaining that none of us was from the targeted tribe.
In the year since I had last been in PNG the number of traffic lights in the country had increased 33% -- from three to four. The fourth signal, and the first outside the capital of Port Moresby, seemed to be more a matter of 'keeping up with the Joneses' than a matter of vehicular/pedestrian need or convenience. Perhaps it was still too new, but I saw very few drivers, and no pedestrians, pay any attention to it. Other than the additional traffic light, PNG seemed to be unchanged. It still appears that at any particular time about 70% of the adult population is either chewing betel nut, or selling it. Most of the natives are still dressed in used Western clothing, in a hodgepodge of styles and designs, none of which are color coordinated.
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I made two other stops on this trip, both on mainland Australia. I spent a week or so in Cairns, for the first time, with my daughter and her grandmother. After our luxury vacation there, they returned home (daughter to PNG, her grandmother to Southern California) and I went to Sydney, where I had previously visited. I spent several days there both before and after my time in Tasmania.
Cairns (pronounced cans, as in 'three CANS of peas') is basically a resort area, like Florida, which enjoys a tropical climate. Many Australians vacation there when it is winter and colder in the rest of the country. In the business area (approximately four blocks by eight blocks) it was almost impossible to go 30 feet without being urged to take a tour, cruise, hike, ride, dive, or para-sail experience. During the summer time the town is too hot and humid for many Australians, and the area is very quiet. We visited the barrier reef, rode a restored steam train, and took a Disney-like aerial tramway ride over, along, and through about five miles of rainforest. On my own I hiked several miles of railroad track, and explored the local switching yards.
Sydney was again a very comfortable place to rest, read, and enjoy the many ethnic fast-food outlets, including the American burger and fried chicken chains. What I enjoyed the most in Sydney was the wonderful variety of Indian and Chinese fast-food restaurants there. The University of Sydney again provided a free courtesy computer account and room key so that I could access my email at my convenience.
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The approximate costs involved were as follows:
Category PNG Tasmania Mainland Total
Plane, international $1,900
Plane, domestic 400
Lodging $300 $400 $400 1,100
Food 100 250 100 450
Guest meals 100 100 100 300
Miscellaneous 50 100 100 250
TOTAL $550 $850 $700 $4,400
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C. W. Lee, January 20, 1997
cwlee@dhvx20.csudh.edu
Post Office Box 4822
Carson, California 90749-4822
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Rec.Travel Library
More on Pacific Rim
More on Australia
Also by C.W. Lee:
Tramping New Zealand 1994
Papua New Guinea 1995
Foaming Nova Scotia 1997
Neqemgelisa on Vancouver Island, Plus... 1998
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