Our next stop was Cape Breton Island, NS where we'd spend four days. We packed up the tent and drove to Wood Islands, PEI and caught the car ferry to Caribou, NS. In the morning, the ferry leaves at 9:15 and 10:44. The cost was $27.25 for the car and about $4.00 per person. The distance traveled on the ferry is fourteen miles and takes a little more then an hour.
We had made reservations at a private campground in a town called Cheticamp on Cape Breton Island, at the southwest corner of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The drive north from Caribou to Cheticamp took about four hours. At the campground, we took a drive inside and promptly departed. It had the appearance of a permanent trailer park and did not suit our tastes. We drove into the Park and located a campground called Cheticamp. Again, the Canadian government outdid itself with a splendid campground. We found a site nestled in some trees and close to the facilities. Had it been later in the season, we might not have gotten in so late in the afternoon. This campground, by the way, is not shown on the map provided by the NS tourist bureau. It is at the entrance to the Park.
The next morning, we drove part of the famous Cabot Trail. This drive took us from the campground on Cape Breton Island to Neils Harbor on the northeast side of the Island. One way to describe the Cabot Trail is to compare it with the Big Sur in California. The west side is much like the northern portion of the Big Sur while the east side is similar to the southern end. Whatever, it is a continuous spectacle of natural beauty. Unlike PEI with its sandstone base, Cape Breton sits on bedrock and the mountains, although small, are volcanic rock. The Trail winds up and down and around the mountains in a zigzag, curvy fashion usually overlooking the ocean and tiny fishing villages. Many, many views are breathtaking - mesmerizing. One can easily go crazy with the camera. As we did on PEI, we often wandered off the main road. I'll describe two such memorable jaunts.
The first was to a place called 'Meat Cove.' It is at the very northern tip of Cape Breton Island. The drive on a dirt road for about five miles was harrowing with steep, hairpin curves and no guard rails. And, of course, the drops off the side were breathtaking. Here, I'm not talking about the view. But, having said all that, driving to Meat Cove can be done by car or motor home. Just use common sense and go slow.
Toward the end of the road, a few homes could be seen in a valley and off to the right was the Atlantic. We suddenly came to the end of the road, which really sits on a bluff overlooking the ocean. We parked our 'truck' on a grassy knoll, which we learned later was part of a private campground. After a few minutes of looking in awe at the view and the shear drop to the ocean, a man walked up and asked if he could be of assistance.
This man and his several relatives are Meat Cove. His name is Kenneth McLellan and is of Scottish-Irish descent. His family has owned Meat Cove for seven generations with their primary occupation being, of course, fishing. Because of the recent moratorium on Cod fishing by the Canadian government, Kenneth has had to supplement his other 'fishing', e.g., lobstering, with additional means of income. Of the many acres owned by the family, Kenneth has eight of them. He is developing a part of those acres into a campground. Although primitive, people now go there to camp - tenting and 'trailoring.' He expects to have hot showers installed in about a year.
Kenneth also charters out his fishing boat for deep sea fishing and whale-watching. During hunting season, he guides hunters into the back country to do their thing. He loves the outdoors and looks the part. One way to describe Kenneth is the Marlboro Man without the horse and cigarette.
Kenneth told us that the government has been trying to evict his entire family so that Meat Cove can be incorporated into the Cape Breton Island National Park. Several years ago, he and his relatives beat such an attempt by the government. But, ever since then, the government has been less then cooperative in providing services to them. For example, this week (July 4, 1994), private telephone service will be installed to the community for the first time. And, according to Kenneth, getting maintenance accomplished on the road I described above, is like pulling teeth.
(Note from Suzi: I understand people using Kenneth's campground can arrange for dinner with a family in the Cove.)
We wish we could have spent more time with Kenneth, but we had to move on. When we go back to Nova Scotia, it is a good bet that we'll return to Meat Cove and listen to Kenneth around the 'campfire.' One thing I have left out is Kenneth's description of how Meat Cove got its name. Go there and find out. Kenneth can be contacted as follows:
Meat Cove Camping
Kenneth McLellan
Meat Cove, Inverness County
Nova Scotia, Nova Scotia
BOC 1EO
(902) 383-2379
The second memorable jaunt was to a little fishing village called White Point. It is easily accessible and located on the northeast corner of the Island. This paved side road off Cabot Trail dead ends in the village. As we descended a steep hill into the village, we saw the classic view of a fishing village nestled into an inlet of Aspy Bay. Great for pictures. But, once into the village, a dirt road off to the side that disappeared over the top of a hill, caught Suzi's eye.
We looked at each other and without a word, I drove up this dirt road. At the top, we found the real White Point before us. It stretched out for about three quarters of a mile to a point into Aspy Bay. This jut of land was covered with high, fluffy like green grass with gray rocks protruding up throughout the area. There were no buildings, trees or shrubs. We could have walked, but decided instead to drive. I put the Blaser into four-wheel drive and cautiously crept around this piece of land, got out of the truck, walked around, let the dog run and took pictures. It was not our intent to drive to the point, because, well, I had some doubt about getting back. And, where in the world would we find a tow truck to pull us wayward tourists out?
Anyway, I thought I had seen what looked like a white cross all the way out on the point. I got the binoculars out; it was a cross. In front of it were white stakes making up a rectangle about fifty feet long and thirty feet wide. In front of this marked plot of land was what looked like a placard. Again, we could have walked. But, being a guy, I said what the hell, let's drive it. So, we did, very carefully. When we finally reached the cross, the placard, on a board about a foot off the ground, read: 'The Unknown Sailor.' There was no grave site within the marked off area - just grass and rocks.
To some, this mini-adventure would be nothing. But to us, it was a discovery with some mystery in a place where the wind blew hard across a very lonely, desolate and eerie piece of land. We debated whether we should ask the fisherman what was behind the white cross. But, we were pressed for time, and, besides we said to each other, maybe someone else will pick up the ball where we left off. Oh, a four-wheel drive is mandatory. In a couple of places, the wheels sank down into wet ground three or four inches. And, we had to pass over rocks that a car would have hung up on.
After leaving White Point, we drove down a short way to Neil's Harbor, took in the sights and returned to the Cheticamp Campground. Somewhere along the way, we decided to leave Cheticamp the next day and spend the next two days on the east side of the Island, but still in the Park.
The next morning we broke camp and retraced our route of the previous day over the Cabot Trail, passed Neil's Harbor to Ingonish. Here, there are two Park campgrounds. One is called Ingonish and the other Broadcove. Broadcove is the larger of the two and that's where we pitched camp. Again, a terrific site and highly recommended. We didn't do much this day except hang out and relax. It's good to do nothing occasionally.
The next morning we drove to Louisburg, southeast of Sydney. Here, we visited the Louisburg National Historic Site. Based on over 700 pages of plans and architectural drawings found in France, the Canadian government restored (from the ground up) the 18th-century Fortress of Louisburg. It is a replica of this colonial seaport, but only one-quarter of it has been restored. The theme of the Fortress is to represent a day in the summer of 1744. Townspeople, soldiers and workers (dressed in the appropriate clothes) are bustling about like it really is that day in 1744. The realism is incredible and with little effort, easy for one to become a part of that time in history. As the tour books recommend, plan on spending the day there or at least four hours. Don't worry about getting hungry, because there are period Inns and taverns in which hearty meals are served. One should not leave Nova Scotia without visiting this replica of a historic harbor town.
(Note from Suzi: Be sure to purchase a loaf of Soldiers Bread; it is delicious.)
About replicating the times of 1774, we heard something on the radio about hiring actors who play soldiers at the Fortress. It seems that the 'National Park Czar' for Nova Scotia recently ruled that women could apply for jobs as soldiers. According to the radio, women did not serve in the French army during that time. Needless to say, there is considerable debate going on right now about this policy. I have to wonder how well the movie about General Patton would have been received if Meryl Street had played the General.
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We broke camp early in the morning and drove south to Digby, NS, which took about six hours. We had made reservations at a private campground, Fundy Spray Trailer Park (902-245-4884). Although it is private and had lots of 'permanent' trailers, it was clean and friendly. Our objectives for the Digby area were fourfold - drive down Digby Neck; view the Tidal Bore; visit Kejimkujik National Park and do a circuit drive to the east coast, down to the southern tip of NS and north up the west coast back to Digby. We planned on doing this in four days and start the return home on July 1.
Driving down Digby Neck to Brier Island requires taking two car ferries. The ferries are small and although we experienced no appreciable waiting periods, high-season may require some waiting. The cost is $1.00 round trip on each ferry. Similar to Meat Cove, Brier Island is a good place to view the whales from land. Unfortunately, we saw no whales at either location. The drive down Digby Neck was fun and picturesque.
(Note from Suzi: The locals throughout our trip were friendly and more then happy to share their time, knowledge and experience. Before leaving Brier Island, be sure to visit Mrs. Garrow's home. She had the best quilting we had seen on the entire trip for reasonable prices. She is ninety-one - an amazing woman.)
The next day we visited Kejimkujik National Park and drove the circuit mentioned above. It is a beautiful wilderness area in which one can participate in interpretive programs, canoe, hike and camp in remote sections. Unfortunately, the weather was starting to turn bad on us - rain, fog, drizzle - the works. |
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