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Labrador: the Trans-Labrador Highway - Travelogue

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Submitted by: Tim Nye United States
Website: None Available
Submission Date: 04 February 2005

PAGE - 1 - Add your travelogue
There was an interesting thread in rec.travel on the Trans-Labrador Highway which I was able to save (at least the posts which showed up before I went on vacation, that is). The posts have appended together and are presented below:

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From: gpwilhel@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Greg Wilhelm) Subject: Overland route to Labrador?
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 1994 16:06:49 GMT

Can anyone tell me if there exists an overland route from Quebec, CA to the province of Labrador (specifically, North West River/Goose Bay) ? Is the road paved? Chip sealed? Graded? Fire break trail? (My road maps are typically American and don't show Canada in detail.)

Thanks!

-- Greg Wilhelm gpwilhel@ucs.indiana.edu AMA HSTA DoD#905 1991 Honda ST1100

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Date: 29 Jul 1994 00:34:42 GMT
From: Hugo_Roy@fcbbs.login.qc.ca (Hugo Roy) Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrador?

Can anyone tell me if there exists an overland route from Quebec, CA to the province of Labrador (specifically, North West River/Goose Bay) ? Is the road paved? Chip sealed? Graded? Fire break trail? (My road maps are typically American and don't show Canada in detail.)

Thanks!

--

Greg Wilhelm gpwilhel@ucs.indiana.edu AMA HSTA DoD#905 1991 Honda ST1100

Unfortunately, there isn't. There are useless roads that cross the QC-Labrador border in the Shefferville, Fermont and Blanc-Sablon areas, but these roads aren't connected to the rest of the road network. You'd have to go to these communities by rail or sea.

The only road link to Labrador goes thru Newfoundland. A 2-hour ferry links Sainte-Barbe, on the island's west coast to Blanc-Sablon. From there, a paved road goes into Labrador. But I'm not sure it goes until GooseBay... In fact, I think there are more chances it does not... A friend told me the Labrador road network is totally isolated from the rest of the continent, except (maybe) with the long ferry from NFLD to GooseBay.

Hope this is helpful

Hugo Roy
Montreal geographer-cartographer-journalist

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From: olaf@kean.ucs.mun.ca (OLAF)
Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrador? Date: 29 Jul 94 14:43:02 -0230

In article <75034590.3193040@fcbbs.fcbbs.login.qc.ca>, Hugo_Roy@fcbbs.login.qc.ca (Hugo Roy) writes: > Can anyone tell me if there exists an overland route from Quebec, CA > to the province of Labrador (specifically, North West River/Goose Bay) ? > Is the road paved? Chip sealed?

Graded? Fire break trail? (My road maps > are typically American and don't show Canada in detail.) >

> Thanks!

> > -- > Greg Wilhelm gpwilhel@ucs.indiana.edu AMA HSTA DoD#905 1991 Honda > ST1100

> > Unfortunately, there isn't. There are useless roads that cross the ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Not so! see below

kl

> QC-Labrador border in the Shefferville, Fermont and Blanc-Sablon areas, but > these roads aren't connected to the rest of the road network. You'd have to > go to these communities by rail or sea. >

> The only road link to Labrador goes thru Newfoundland. A 2-hour ferry links > Sainte-Barbe, on the island's west coast to Blanc-Sablon. From there, a paved > road goes into Labrador. But I'm not sure it goes until GooseBay... In fact, > I think there are more chances it does not... A friend told me the Labrador > road network is totally isolated from the rest of the continent, except > (maybe) with the long ferry from NFLD to GooseBay. >

> Hope this is helpful

> > Hugo Roy
> Montreal geographer-cartographer-journalist

The Trans-Labrador Highway may not be the best road in the world, but it does exist. What follows is a compilation of material on getting to Labrador, beginning with the easy ways (ferries) and ending with the most adventurous way -- the TLH.
Most people who visit Labrador either fly in or visit by car by crossing over by ferry from the island of Newfoundland (which itself is accessible by ferry from Nova Scotia). The ferry crossing from St. Barbe is fairly quick (about an hour); this ferry is operated by Puddister Trading Company Ltd.; their address is 23 Springdale Street, Box 38, St. John's, Newfoundland A1C 5H5. Call (709) 722-4000 or 722-4011 or 726-0015 for schedules. However, there is no reservation service; it's first come, first served. Travellers should note that the ferry sets out from Newfoundland and deposits you at Blanc Sablon, Quebec. This means that you cross from the Newfoundland Time Zone to Eastern Standard Time, a difference of one and a half hours; watch out! departure and arrival times are measured in local time. From Blanc Sablon, you follow Highway 510, a paved road, along the coast for 80 km. into Labrador as far as Red Bay, where archaeologists have uncovered a sixteenth century Basque shore-based whaling station that is well worth a visit. There is also an airport at Blanc Sablon if you are interested in a quick visit, or in fishing the Pinware River. Mosquitoes and blackflies are ferocious; thick clouds or the critters are everywhere and drive even the locals indoors. Muskol or other repellents are treated as appetizers by these suckers, so your only safe bet is to get a fly jacket (LL Bean sells them) with netting over the head and elasticised wrists. THIS IS NO JOKE! Don't take the mosquitoes lightly. Also, please note that Highway 510 doesn't connect with any road leading "outside." It winds its way south a couple of miles from Blanc Sablon (past the local airport) and north as far as Red Bay, but essentially that's it; it's a highway from nowhere to nowhere (you can perhaps appreciate that Country & Western music is accordingly very popular in the region).

Another ferry linking Newfoundland and Labrador connects Lewisport in Newfoundland and Goose Bay; this service is operated by Marine Atlantic and can be contacted at (709) 772-7381. The trip takes thirty-five hours, so you better have plenty of time on your hands if you try this. Also, note that this ferry service by-passes Red Bay entirely, so if it's the Basque whaling site that draws you to Newfoundland, you best bet is the Straits ferry from St. Barbe.

>From Goose Bay it is possible, if you are really adventurous, to drive across Labrador. I have never driven it, so the information that follows comes from others. However, the travel guide distributed by the Tourism Branch of Newfoundland's Department of Development contains up-to-date information on this route; call their toll-free number at (800) 563-6353 and they'll send you a copy. The Rail Service between Sept-Isles, Quebec and Labrador is provided by Iron Ore Canada's Quebec, North Shore and Labrador Railways; for information, call (514) 871-1331.

According to Marc Herant (mrc@helios.UCSC.EDU), you take the ferry from Lewisport, Newfoundland to Goose Bay, and drive across to Churchill Falls. You can continue to Esker and put your car on the train to Labrador City--or even Sept-Isles, although he thinks that it is now possible to drive through from Churchill Falls to Labrador City. From Labrador City, there is a road all the way to Quebec City. Mark described this as "a cool trip. The Churchill Falls hydro plant must be one of the most awesome piece of civil engineering I have ever seen. The landscape is quite flat, and very deserted, all the way. The roads are dirt, but in fairly good conditions."

Marc's comments prompted this response from Donald Teed, who once attended Eric G. Lambert High School in Churchill Falls, Labrador (donald@sq.sq.com): "You don't want to drive across Labrador unless you understand what you are getting into. Your average small car is going to scrape its bottom on the road which is very rough and unkept in parts. There is no service, civilization, gas, food, lodging, etc., but at the main points along the way, which would be Gagnon, Fermont (spelling?), Labrador City/Wabush, Churchill Falls, and Goose Bay. You would need to bring along food and extra gas. There is now a road from Wabush to Churchill Falls, I hear, that was just finished last year, so that would provide an alternative to the train. You are not going to be able to drive at a speed beyond 40 mph (or slower) at any point in Labrador. But then you might be foolish and want to do that, which will give you a very rough ride and possibly damage your vehicle. A truck, four wheel drive, or other vehicle with good road clearance would be recommended. If you like the idea of this kind of trip and don't decide to do it in a Corvette, Geo Metro, or a cherished RV, etc., then go. But bring fly dope (Woodsman's or Muskol are good), gas, food, possibly a tent and camping stuff, although you ought to be able to each segment of the journey in one day. Not your usual tourist trip, but maybe an adventure for some. The method of train (with car) from Sept-Isles to Esker, then road to Churchill Falls and Goose Bay, is the easiest on the vehicle. The road from Esker to Churchill Falls is well maintained loose gravel (112 miles), whereas the Goose Bay-Churchill Falls stretch is not as well used nor maintained."

One last point. This year, several tour buses have used the TransCanada road to get to Goose Bay. The long and the short of it: yes, a road link exists; the quality of the road is far from good, but it is better now than it was, and it will probably get better in the future.

Hope this helps.

Olaf Janzen
Corner Brook, Newfoundland

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From: af877@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Harry Dodsworth) Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrador? Date: Sun, 31 Jul 1994 04:45:16 GMT

The road from Baie Comeau, on the St. Lawrence East of Quebec City and Labrador City (Quebec Route 389) was opened around 1988 The extension from Lab City to Goose Bay was opened around 1992. I drove from Ottawa to Labrador City in 1990 in a Dodge Colt. It is an adventure drive - you have to be prepared to drive for over 200 miles on gravel - but not car breaking with luck and care.
We counted cars (in July) and in the wildest 220 miles, we passed 37 cars.

As another poster mentioned there is a short road in Southern Labrador which is accessed by the ferry from Newfoundland to Blanc Sablon, Quebec. It is also possible to reach Blanc Sablon by a weekly ferry from Sept Iles, Quebec visiting small ports along the St. Lawrence. This is not a luxury cruise! --

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Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrador? From: arose@admin.cabot.nf.ca
Date: 5 Aug 94 08:58:02 +1000

In article , gpwilhel@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Greg Wilhelm) writes: > Can anyone tell me if there exists an overland route from Quebec, CA > to the province of Labrador (specifically, North West River/Goose Bay) ? > Is the road paved? Chip sealed? Graded? Fire break trail? (My road maps > are typically American and don't show Canada in detail.) Yes there is an overland route from Quebec. It comes through Wabush out to Churchill Falls and then across Labrador to Happy Valley/Goose Bay from there you can take a ferry to Lewisporte on the island portion of Newfoundland or you can return by the same route. The road is gravel and can be rough in places. The Newfoundland Government Tourism Office has an 800 number 1-800-563-6353 and will be able to answer your questions in more detail.
Enjoy!

> > Thank!

> > -- > Greg Wilhelm gpwilhel@ucs.indiana.edu AMA HSTA DoD#905 1991 Honda ST1100

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From: ithompson@pnfi.forestry.ca (Ian Thompson) Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrador? Date: Fri, 5 Aug 1994 14:08:14 GMT

In article <1994Aug5.085802.1@admin.cabot.nf.ca> arose@admin.cabot.nf.ca writes: >Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrador? >From: arose@admin.cabot.nf.ca
>Date: 5 Aug 94 08:58:02 +1000

>In article , gpwilhel@silver.ucs.indiana.edu (Greg Wilhelm) writes: >> Can anyone tell me if there exists an overland route from Quebec, CA >> to the province of Labrador (specifically, North West River/Goose Bay) ? >> Is the road paved? Chip sealed? Graded? Fire break trail? (My road maps >> are typically American and don't show Canada in detail.) >Yes there is an overland route from Quebec. It comes through Wabush out to >Churchill Falls and then across Labrador to Happy Valley/Goose Bay

stuff deleted....

What this poster should have told you is that the road is extremely rough, very long, very dusty, not patrolled, has no gas stations, nor any emergency services, and is not open in winter. So, take appropriate precautions such as 2 spare tires, extra gas, INSECT REPELLANT, sleeping bag, rain suit, flashlight, etc.

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From: charlie.capstick@guildnet.org (Charlie Capstick) Subject: Overland route to Labrad
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 1994 16:04:00 GMT

On 08-04-94 AROSE@ADMIN.CABOT.NF.CA was talking about Overland route to Labrador:

>Yes there is an overland route from Quebec. It comes through >Wabush out to Churchill Falls and then across Labrador to Happy >Valley/Goose Bay from there you can take a ferry to Lewisporte on the >island portion of Newfoundland or you can return by the same route. >The road is gravel and can be rough in places. The Newfoundland >Government Tourism Office has an 800 number 1-800-563-6353 and will be >able to answer your questions in more detail. >Enjoy!

Newfoundland Tourism advises that an ordinary automobile is not recommended for this route. First choice is 4X4, second is any truck with good under-clearance. Call 709-896-2108 for more specific road conditions.

Charlie Capstick, PC Postcards, charlie.capstick@guildnet.org

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From: af877@FreeNet.Carleton.CA (Harry Dodsworth) Subject: Re: Overland route to Labrad
Date: Sat, 6 Aug 1994 04:07:16 GMT

I am surprised if Newfoundland Tourism are saying that an ordinary car is not suitable for the Trans-Labrador Highway. As I already posted, I drove to Labrador City from Quebec in 1990 in a Dodge Colt. This road is used by tour buses, cars and RVs. The road from Labrador City to Goose Bay was opened in 1992 and was certainly rough initially - generally these new roads get better each year as they are graded. Ian Thompson suggested some precautions - they may be a little exaggerated but they could be very useful in case of trouble. At least if you do have trouble, people will stop and help. The longest section between gas stations is about 200 miles and most cars will easily cover this distance. Snow is possible between September and May. Greg Wilhelm who started this thread was thinking of driving this road on a motorcycle and that I do not recommend!



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