The first time we found the Hotel Serenidad, it was in 1987. We were staying at a smaller place across the Rio Mulege on the hill, and while at the pool, our next door neighbor insisted that we go to the Serenidad for the weekly roast pig feast. It was a Saturday evening. We soon found out that most of the patrons arrive by private plane from the US or mainland Mexico, but we were undeterred in my Toyota Corolla as we pulled up.

The dinner was apparently amazing for pork enthusiasts, but we ordered less gamey fare. Awesome! We enjoyed every morsel and vowed to return for a stay.

Later that year we did, and we were in awe that a place like this would exist after a 15-hour drive through some desolate desert. The rooms were delightful, air conditioned, cleaned daily and surrounded a lovely swimming pool. The place was built in th 1960's by an American who still leases the land from the neighboring indigenous government.

The hotel sits at the mouth of the river Mulege as it empties into the Sea of Cortez. As such it is a flawless location to launch smaller water craft, which you'll undoubtedly use to explore the pristine beaches and nearby islands or the Bahia de Concepcion -- one of the most remarkably beautiful bays this traveller has seen.

The hotel has double occupancy rooms as well as casitas (detached cottages) for families or larger groups. The restaurant is wonderful, but closed in the dog days of September, when the temps and humidity can overtake even brazen travellers. Luckily, the swim-up pool bar semmingly never closes.

The drive can be made from Southern California in about 15 hours, or there are flights from LAX to Loreto (south of Mulege) which would mandate a car rental and 90 minute drive. The roads are great and the rugged scenery will leave you wishing for an extra memory stick for your digital camera.

By my accounts, the last time we stayed at the Hotel Serenidad, it was our 19th time. With some seasoning, you'll find additional wonder spots in the area that will throw you back to another era, when life was easier and more carefree. But the Serenidad is the place to start.