When I returned to Mozambique (for the fourth time as a resident) in early 2003, I was eager to rediscover Swaziland and the Ezulwini Valley. After being initially frustrated by my wife's desire to get to know South Africa during our frequent cross-border excursions, I finally won her over to the idea of Mbabane when we were faced with Pretoria's inanely restrictive visa policies that discourage tourism to Mozambique's larger neighbor. My first experiences in the Kingdom of Swaziland had dated from the mid-1980s and it was love at first sight. Now married, I was keen to show my family the delights of the beautiful hills and valleys, not to mention the engaging Swazi welcome. The Sun offers the traveler both of these in bounty and comfort. Unfortunately we have now returned to the United States and haven't a clue when we might next be able to enjoy the restful luxury of the Ezulwini Sun, but its memory will remain with us forever.