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Castile and Leon (Castilla y Leon) is historically, aesthetically and culturally, the heartland of Spain. It is the region that shaped the nation's history. Its lofty central plains with open skies was frontier land, where castles and walled towns marked the slow push south of Christian forces in their struggle against the Moors. Spain's legendary hero, El Cid, was born here and was instrumental in the expulsion of the Moors from the region.
Once made up of several kingdoms, Castile and Leon today forms the largest autonomous region, composed of nine provinces: Avila, Burgos, Leon, Palencia, Salamanca, Segovia, Soria, Valladolid, and Zamora. Each has its own marked identity, but all share an extremely rich heritage. The capitals of all nine provinces were well established cities in the early Middle Ages and each boasts a cathedral and scores of monasteries and convents from the past. The pilgrims' route to Santiago de Compostela, which passed through the provinces of Burgos, Palencia and Leon, introduced Romanesque and then Gothic architecture and art forms into the region, and a magnificent cultural legacy emerged that combined new aesthetic ideas with the region's inherent spirituality. |
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Via Crucis (Way of the Cross) - This is Palencia's pride and joy. It is a long, steep and beautiful stone stairway, graced by ancient cypress trees, which ascends El Calvari (Calvary hill), directly north of the principal square. At the top, the famous statue of Mare de Deu del Peu de la Creu (Mother of God at the Foot of the Cross) is lodged in a simple, court yarded Oratori (chapel), whose whitewashed walls sport some of the worst religious paintings imaginable. The views out over coast and town are sumptuous. On Good Friday, during in the Davallament (Lowering), one of the most moving religious celebrations on the island, a figure of Jesus is slowly carried by torchlight down from the Oratori to the church of Nostra Senyora dels Angels.
The Ermita de Nostra Senyora del Puig - The rambling, mostly eighteenth-century monastery offers further magnificent views of the environment and the city. The monastery occupies an extraordinarily serene and beautiful spot on top of the Puig de Maria, a 320-metre-high hump facing the south end of town. The monastic complex, with its fortified walls, courtyard, chapel, refectory and cells, has had a chequered history, alternately abandoned and restored by both monks and nuns. The Benedictines now own the place, but the monks are gone and today a custodian supplements the order's income by renting out cells to tourists.
The Environment - Palencia is situated in the province of Castile and Leon, and stands on a high plateau, with mountain ranges to the north that shield it from the coast. To the east, the Iberian mountains separates the region from the basin of the Ebro River. The region is surprisingly mountainous, dotted with lakes, often covered with forest land, and drained by the majestic Duero River that meanders west through the region to Portugal. It offers numerous sightseeing wonders and is a feast to the eye.
Port De Palencia - Over at the port, things are a little more touristy, though still pleasantly low-key. With the mountains in the background, the resort winds through the flatlands behind the Badia de Palencia. The deeply indented bay has sheltered waters that are ideal for swimming. The focus of attention is the beach. A narrow, elongated strip of sand that is easily long enough to accommodate the crowds, though as a general rule you will have more space if you walk further southeast, towards Alcudia. There is a abundance of apartment buildings and hotels blights on the edge of town, and the noisy main road to Alcudia runs close to most of the seashore. The location is very appealing, especially in the center behind the marina, where old narrow streets hint at the resort's origins as a small port and fishing harbour.
Placa Major - Palencia's main square accommodates a cluster of laid-back cafes and the dour facade of the church of Nostra Senyora dels Angels , a sheer cliff face of sun-bleached stone pierced by a rose window. |
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Palencia's cuisine is pleasant and homely. It offers many roast meats and uses a variety of ingredients gathered from the fertile lands that surround the capital, in the making of its delicious dishes. Palencia's food is succulent and rich, designed to provide the necessary energy to bear the inclemencies of the winter. The cuisine has numerous hot dishes like garlic soups and the classic Castilian soup, made with hogaza bread, olive oil, garlic and paprika, and later garnished with some cured ham and poached eggs. It should not come as a surprise the fact that bread is indeed the main ingredient of this dish, since in this province bread is something of an institution.
The traditional food from this land should always be complemented by a glass of good wine. The best wines in Palencia are under the Designation of Origin Cigales, like the ones from the municipality of Duenas. They also have great liqueurs, which are particularly good after a heavy meal. These include liqueurs made with sloe, walnut, blackberry and morello cherry. |
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Casa Damian - This hundred year old restaurant is believed to be king of the Palencia 'menestra' (vegetable and meat stew), which is cooked over a coal oven. The raw ingredients are excellent. It offers regional (Castile and Leon) cuisine and recommended is the Palominos Menestra (stew), roasted young lamb, and fritters. The wine cellar is made up of Rioja and Ribera del Duero wines, and there is a selection of cigars. The restaurant seats 45, and reservations are recommended. Main courses are 20€ - 40€. Casa Damian is located at Calle Ignacio Martínez de Azcoitia, 9 34001. Tel: 97/9744-628.
La Encina - Typical Castilian carvery at its most delicious best. A traditional wood-burning oven is used for roasting suckling lamb. They also offer baked fish and other seafood favourites. The baked peach with ice-cream is the perfect choice in dessert to round off any meal. There is a set menu of regional (Castile and Leon) cuisine and a Gourmet menu available at 27€. The restaurant is closed on Sunday evenings and it is located on Calle Casane, 2 34002. Tel: 97/9710-936.
La Traserilla - Situated in the historic district, Reyes and Miguel offer a cuisine balanced between tradition and modernity, based on the produce of the region. The cuisine is truly creative, and recommended is the carpaccio of colt, suckling lamb 'crepinata' with a juice-based soup, and fried milk pudding glazed with nougat ice-cream. Average prices for main courses are 20€ - 40€. Also, do not forget to try the apple omelets, or the black soup. The cellar offers Ribera del Duero wines, as well as table wines and a whole host of Denomination of origin wines. Located on Calle San Marcos, 12 34001. Tel: 97/9745-421.
Cafes and restaurants - Palencia does well for cafes and restaurant. On Placa Major, the Cafe Espanyol offers snacks and a good strong cup of coffee, the Juma serves up first-rate tapas and the Restaurante Il Giardino provides superb French-style cuisine. On c/Montision, in between the main square and El Calvari, visitors will also find the upbeat and fashionable Restaurante Cantonet, where the seafood is delicious. |
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| The Best Beaches - Spain is ringed with sand, rock, and seawater. That, coupled with almost year-round sunshine, has attracted many millions of visitors from around the world. |
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