The rate of inflation is very high in Turkey. Prices hardly keep up with the inflation. Therefore if you are from a country with a strong currency, Turkey might even be cheaper than you expect. Because of the inflation, all prices mentioned are in dollars. Several people have written to tell me that this is not really inflation, but devaluation. There is inflation in Turkey, but the currency looses it's value compared with foreign (stronger) currencies.
At the time of our visit (December '96 - January 1997), the exchange rate was a bit above 100.000 Turkish Lira to the dollar. If you're living in Turkey and you are not a millionaire, than you really have a problem!
We travelled on busses and (one) train. Stayed in guesthouses (US$ 10-15 for a double) and hotels (up to 2 stars for up to US$ 30) had meals in restaurants and enough beers in the evening. We got on very comfortably on US$ 50 for the both of us. Note that Turkey may be more expensive during summer!
If you're a student and can prove it with an ISIC card you'll get discounts on about everything. Even your non-student partner may qualify for the same discount (most notably on busses). If we mention two prices in this letter, the first is the normal price, the second is the student price.
In general tourists are not overcharged in Turkey (at least we weren't). Compared with loads of other Asian, African and South American countries it's an oasis of honesty. Still the rules apply: ask prices before you order anything and bargain for everything slightly tourist, it will make your stay a lot cheaper.
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In winter you may expect a lot of rain in Turkey. We were very lucky; in two weeks time we only had one day of rain. On the Aegean and Mediterranean coast it was about 18 degrees Celsius. In Cappadocia temperatures during the day were about 8 till 10 degrees Celsius. In and around Antalya we had clear blue skies, so we even got a suntan.
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We were in Turkey for the third time. We knew what to expect, but once again we were pleasantly surprised by the friendliness of the Turkish people. People almost everywhere are very helpful and show a genuine interest in you. Even the salespeople with shops aimed at tourists are not too pushy. We think the Turkish people are the greatest asset of the country and this makes Turkey one of our favourite countries world-wide.
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Busses are cheap an and excellent. We chose our companies rather on availability than on reputation, but we were never disappointed. Free water, coffee and tea or softdrinks were provided on all long-distance busses. All busses were non-smoking, we are not sure that this is also the case in summer, when the air-conditioning is working. The heating of the busses was consequently set on tropical temperatures.
Turkey introduced a new law about non-smoking about 2 months ago. Now it is forbidden to smoke almost everywhere in public areas. Busses are considered to be public areas and penalties are heavy (up to 10 million liras). It is really more pleasant now than before. In one bus, it was written that bus drivers were allowed to smoke, but in an interval of 2 hours between each cigarette..... (Roland and Ozer)
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We flew from Holland to Izmir on Air Alfa, a Turkish charter airline. Prices are so cheap, it's almost unbelievable. Although X-mas is high season we paid less than US$ 250 for a open-jaw return ticket (Amsterdam-Izmir, Antalya-Amsterdam). In Low season the price is even US$ 50 less and it's possible to fly return from Amsterdam to Istanbul for less than US$ 140. This way it's cheaper to fly to Europe first and than on to Turkey. In Holland's big cities shop around in the bucket-shops, or even better: use the Turkish travel agencies. in Amsterdam try Ad Latjes (he's also on Internet, http://www.etn.nl) or the Turkish agencies in the Albert Cuypstraat. In The Hague use one of the Turkish agencies in the Schilderswijk near the 'Holland's Spoor' railwaystation.
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We found hitching quite easy. It never took more than 10 minutes to hitch a ride. Around Antalya we got a lot of rides from tourists in rented vehicles.
Several people have asked me to ad a warning about hitching. They are right; hitching can be dangerous and in recent years there have been some very nasty incidents. The normal rules apply: don't hitch at night and don't get into a car with more than one male.
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We arrived at Adnan Menderes Airport, which has very efficient immigration officers and very slow luggage-handlers. Hassle-free money-changing is possible behind the customs. There is a HAVAS bus to the city centre (Hilton hotel) for US$ 2. You'll find the bus if you walk out the airport building and than 100 metres to your left.
We stayed at the 2-star Hotel Baylan (232-4831426, fax 4833844) and paid US$ 30 for a double room including central heating, bath and breakfast (we asked prices and booked in advance by fax). The hotel is located a bit back from the main roads in a quiet street. Still it's very conveniently located only 200 metres from the main railwaystation.
Izmir is a big city without a lot of sights. The fortress on Kadifekale is a pleasant place to visit because of the great view over the city. Both the historic and ethnographic museum are worth visiting. Entry fees are US$ 1.50/0.80 for the first and US$ 0.80/0.40 for the latter.
Thousands of conscripts get their initial military training in Izmir. Sunday is their day off, so the streets are packed with them and for every telephone booth there are soldiers lining up, waiting to call home.
We had great food (and beer!) in the Dört Mousim et Lokantasi on 1369 Sokak for about US$ 5 each. The service was good, in spite of the live soccer game on the bigscreen TV (staff and diners were glued to it).
We took the 08.30 train from the Basmane station to Seltuk. It takes about two hours and costs US$ 1.30/0.90.
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Seltuk has lots of accommodation. Some prices for a double room including breakfast: Victoriahotel US$ 25; hotel Hasanaga US$ 15 (no heating); the guesthouses we looked at all charged prices between US$ 10 and 15.
We stayed in the very friendly Homeros pension at Asmali Sokak 17 (232-8923995). Their best double room cost US$ 15 including bathroom with hot water and a fruity breakfast. Other rooms are US$ 12. Dervish, the owner doesn't whirl, but went out to buy us a heater because of the chilly nights and took us to Ephesus in his car.
If you're not catholic, you may skip a visit to Mary's house.
Ephesus is a definite must-see. Have yourself dropped at the top entrance and walk down to the valley. Entry costs US$ 3.80/1.90. Don't miss the Roman public toilet; always a nice photo opportunity. Walking back to the village is an easy 40 minute stroll, using a newly made walkway. Offers of free lifts to the village will invariably end in a carpetshop (we were warned by Dervish).
Efes museum in Seltuk is not big, but very nice, with a good layout and good explanations (US$ 2.30/1.15).
A visit to Sirince may be nice in Summer, but the former Greek village is very sleepy in winter. One of the Byzantine churches in the village is slowly falling apart; the restored church was closed (but you can have a peek through the window). There are minibuses to Sirince (US$ 0.20) at five times a day (9, 10, 11, 13 15 and 17 o'clock) from a stand 100 metres north from the railwaystation. On the dolmus we met Hasan Gemici, the 1952 Olympic wrestling champion in the category up to 52 kilograms. Apart from being a good raconteur, Hasan also runs a guest-house in Sirince.
As it is winter there were no scheduled tours to Priene, Miletus and Didyma. But as it was also low season we booked a car with driver at ATS travel service (at the busstation) for US$ 30. We don't agree with the suggested times for visiting the three sites in the LP guide. We think Priene (entree US$ 1.20/40) deserves at least two hours and Miletus (US$ 0.80/0.30) about the same amount of time. Didyma (US$ 0.80/0.40) can be seen in 45 minutes. Of these three we liked Priene best. In Miletus the theatre is great and Didyma shouldn't be missed alone for the sheer size of its walls.
We took a Pamukkale bus to Denizli, less than three hours, US$ 5 each (yes, we both got studentprice).
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| In the direct vicinity of the Denizli busstation there are lots of hotels. All charge prices between US$ 20 and 30. |
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