| Submitted by: Paloma Wregg United States |
| Submission Date: 11 February 2005 |
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Arriving in Milan, the flight was a crystal clear aerial view of perfectly designed and divided landscapes. The Alps were spectacular to fly over and the day was about 30 degrees when I arrived in the morning. Luca and Umberta look the same and Lucia and Stephano were bright and friendly to me. Lucia took me to the swimming holes they use in the Medeterannean Sea. So clear and beautiful – no sharks, no rubbish. I was glad to sleep. The steps go all over the countryside and the cars can be scary.
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In the morning we went to the Portofino Mountain cape. The cats are like accessories scattered and sleepy on the villas. This is because of the fishing in the area. The walks are beautiful and the mountain is cool enough to enjoy. Then we went to Recco. A small beach and Riviera full of shops and fishermen. It was completely rebuilt after the war because the railroad was a target for bombing. I left Umberta in the Supermarket and realised for the first time how scary it is without English. I managed to ask a little girl the name of her dog (Bianca, white) but that was all. The smell of the city is beautiful, breads and pastas and coffee. We had foccacia in the morning for a treat. Umberta showed me the Giant Fry pan they celebrate around once a year.
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Recovering quite well from yesterday and I am unsure of why I was so sick. Today I woke up to the phone but stayed in bed to make sure I am better. I go down to the rocks by myself to take a picture of the Sunday bathers. By 11:00am I am home and we set out on our walk to the Picnic. UP and up the mountain by endless stairs, past little villas hanging on the edge of the mountains, each with a little herb garden and a cat or dog sprawled in the sun. The grey line of highway stretches between and through these mountains dotted in tiny flowers and olive trees. It seems to take no time at all to hop from one side of the mountain to the next and we reach the little church, old and decorated within and hour. It's so pretty here. It's a very hot day but the church is shaded by rows of pine trees on both sides so its quite cool with the welcome mountain air. It is an Accente Festival (the rising of Christ) and the food is ongoing from the start. Polenta, sausage spirals cooked on the slate BBQ. Fresh Brushetta, foccacia and lots of red and white wine. This is my favourite fragalino. Its so light and made locally. Rice cake, biscuits and fruit donnuts for desert with short black coffee.
All the while the Italian laughter from the little ladies cooking in the smallest kitchen ever, at the back of the church. There is a choral singing and Luca translates for me. After almost 7 hours we start to make our way home, full and blissful. Thankful for the walk home, we spend the evening watching Stephano's slides of his scout trips. Luca's slides of Brazil. Both are fantastico. A thoughlly enjoyed day. It is still light outside at 9:30pm and I go to bed tired. Tomorrow is Portofino and San Fruttosa.
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Today we went to San Fruttosa. We walked for 2 hours through the Mediterranean forest, beautiful cool weather, over the mountain. Lucia has had the day off school and come with us. It was a wonderful walk. We arrived at San Fruttosa and look longingly at the sea.... But first a trip to the museum. Afterwards we swam (my first swim in the Mediterranean) and sun bathed on the pebbles for lunch. A little cafe restaurante spills on to the beach. A couple enjoying a romantic meal. White table cloths and red flowers in the centre. Red wine to match. So romantic like in the films. Catching a boat around to Portofino we walked high up into the castle and out toward the lighthouse. Eating Gelati we walked through the shops and I saw so many beautiful clothes and things. Everything is so expensive though. Definitely a favourite place. Perfect in scene. Portofino Paradise.. Umberta tells me of the Christ that they have beneath the sea to protect submarines etc. I found the fact they have crosses on the top of every mountain peak so strange, but under the sea as well is funnier to me still. I buy a postcard to send to Steven. Churches have the best positions in this area, overlooking everything, serving as the gathering places for firework displays over the bays. On the boat around to San Margarita... there were so many balconies of pink and red flowers, walls of Jasmine. Even on our way to the train station, the stop signs were in flowerbeds and there were pots of daisies all along the railway platform. Summer is such a spectacular time here. Feeling a little pink from the sun, I finally feel on holidays. Italy is so romantic... everything about it. I adore east Genova so far. The sun is still high in this wonderful day and I look forward to beating it to bed.
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Day 5 and 6 and are joined together because until now I have not had the time. Yesterday we went to Genova to see the Historical churches and towers. Umberta gave me a guided tour and without her I would have given up. The streets are all twisted and tiny like a labyrinth. The old town has such narrow streets that only the Buzz cars can fit down them. Only about 5 people across they twist and turn. I particularly liked looking in the art shops as we passed them.
Choosing to sit on the harbour for lunch. Umberta told me of other historical things around the area. I must admit I am over the church thing and prefer the stripy architecture to the religious paintings. they all look the same. The renovation industry in europe is the richest I'd imagine. Everything is being renovated. After lunch Umberta left me and I learnt again the value of communication. I searched everywhere for chocolate and eventually found a small bar for a lot of money. Getting home was fine and dinner with Umberta's brother was very entertaining. He had just come back from Tanzania. Today I am in Pisa and after finding (accidentally) a botanical garden, I have decide to sit and update my accounts. Being driven from my spot by monstrous mosquitoes I have relocated to a seemingly safer shade. It is lunch time and 35 degrees I am sure. Too hot to do anything and all the city is closed anyway. Gelati and a lot of fruit has cooled me down a little and is a welcome non-carbohydrate fix. I came here by train this morning and made my way by foot to the leaning tower. It was spectacular and I invested in the expensive all around pass. I had to see it all. I saw another cathedral, but it was busy inside - very beautiful from the outside. The silent cometary where the floor is made up of marble tombstones was very special. I found it a little disapointing there was not so much around in English descriptions. I wandered around just guessing and admiring. The merchandise surprised me, because as well as the masses of leaning tower keyrings and T-shirts – were Dawson creek postcards and Bart Simpson bags. A little out of place. Thousands of Pinochioes (wooden, painted, carved, moulded, big, small and tall) which I eventually found out belonged historically to the nearby province of Luca . Speaking of thousands, the currency is especially difficult for a maths illiterate like me. A few extra 00’s can throw me out every time. ....and old coins can still circulate and so there are three different types of ten-lira coins. Small big and alternating between gold and silver. ?????
I have followed my map and as in Genova, walked straight past the many museums I have been heading for. The buildings all look the same, each looks as historic as the next and my only clue is the African men selling watches around the entries to all the touristic places. With one or two hours to wait until the streets and shops all open again, I have just enough time to find a toilet. Till tomorrow....
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I woke up to the telephone and decide to have a lazy day. After doing not much I made my way down to the sea for some sun and swim. My philosophy being if I got a little browner, the Italian food on my thighs might be a little slimmer. Unlike Australia, the appearance of jelly fish draws crowds. A sign of cleaner water. Its a little rougher today and I'm reluctant to get in. Strange things amuse me. The sighting of a some demure cats on the terrace, shaved like lions. Some surfers trying to catch nothing. The beach is busy at this time and the more traditional swimming costume is present (nothing at all). Europeans fat and thin take a slab of rock to sun bake on. I return home with a bright pink tinge rather than the desired brown.
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Sitting in the shade of, literally Jesus himself, I am finally able to breath. Potent doses of Jasmine and coffee have clogged my lungs all morning. I am sitting on the point – feeling like the centre of the world. This is a place you dream of having picnics. Few Italians are here due to the path it takes to travel... as I will explain.
Tired of looking at the mountains, Umberta had dropped me off at the church point so I could climb it. After five minutes of trying to avoid the invisible yet sticky spiderwebs, I continued undeterred at the chance to train for Kilimanjaro. By the time I reached the top 1 1/2 hours later, I was the image of a cacooned silkworm. Picking the trillions of sticky strands from everywhere I decided to retrace my steps down to avoid another onslaught. The views are spectacular and I decided to go from the top of the Mediterranean to the middle. After naming Sarawak the place of endless boardwalks, I name Genova the place of endless stairs. I went down for another hour amazed to find people living along the way, as far as half and hour down. There were no other roads, so a fit lot they would be. Checking the map carefully so I would not chance having to go back up them, I found my way to the point. I past fishing villages and many a scattered cat. |
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