Good! So we could use all facilities, especially the radiators in both, the ladies' and the gents', to dry our cloths. While cooking and eating, the sun came out, presented us with several rainbows and some warming up rays. We finished the day with a very relaxing bath in a very nice and hot pool. What a gift mother nature gave to the Icelanders providing them with free hot water!
As usual, the next morning was a very stormy one, but we did not mind since the wind seemed to blow right in our direction. It was still sunny and we expected a gorgeous day. Nevertheless, the very morning and breakfast was still cold as we had only the choice between freezing shade or sun without protection from the wind. Finally we found ourselves in the washing room where it was both, warm and sheltered. When we started, the first few kilometres were still tough. The direction was back to the main road, that means also face in the wind. On this main road, cycling was wonderful. The sun was out, the wind served as a strong and helpful friend, the road was flat, mountains on the right hand side, the sea to the left. It was also Iceland's national holiday, so there was even less traffic than the day before, in fact, not much but two or three tourist coaches came past us. After a while we came to a gas station where we had coffee and bought some more food for the night and the next morning. And on we went and it was still easy - till we came to a long area of road construction. The wind still wanted to make us fly, but unfortunately the rough road made us hit the brakes. Once more it turned out that such a road does not slow down four-wheeled vehicles very much, they even overtook us without significantly slowing down, providing an avalanche of flying rocks and a cloud of dust simultaneously. The road construction was not over yet when it became lunchtime and we were hungry enough for a meal. When cycling, it seems to me necessary to 'refuel' yourself at least every two hours. But where to shelter from the wind? Despite of the sun it was really cold when you had to face it. A riverbed was the solution. It gave us not only shelter but also some water. Steve even managed to sunbathe for a short while - in his Goretex suit, typically Icelandic. Now it was not very far anymore to our final destination, Arnarstapi. I would not call it a village, but there are some huts, a fishing port, a cafT/restaurant, a campground and millions of birds. We pitched our tents and went for a walk.
The scenery is spectacular: you have the Snaefellsness in the background (well, it was practically always covered in clouds: what a pity, such a perfectly shaped volcano) and steep black cliffs on the seafront. These cliffs are loved by the birds. They are nesting there in thousands later in the year. Amazing how they are sitting on the rocks, preferring some cliffs without any apparent reason to others, cheating, eating, having a good time. When watching the water, we could observe a seal, presumably catching fish. Unfortunately the wind was blowing so hard, leading to an always uneven surface of the water. If it only had dropped, the water there is so clear that we could have seen to the bottom and maybe observed the seal's fishing business. Yes, what a dangerous place for being a fish! If you manage to escape the fishing nets and the hungry birds than you have still got a fair chance of being eaten by a seal. Walking back to our tents we crossed accidentally a colony of birds sitting in the grass. They defended their territory fiercely and attacked us. Since Steve is taller than myself it was more inconvenient for him and his head got picked by an especially brave one of the flying warriors. They are almost as big as ducks and when they fly at you at full speed, it makes you slightly nervous. Finally Steve held up his backpack. So this was now the highest spot and the birds liked to attack it. We wondered how the locals would deal with the aggressive birds: how unpleasant if you cannot leave your house without some 'bird-protection'!
When we were cooking that night we met the first and only unfriendly Icelander on this trip. He was the owner of the campsite/restaurant. First he wanted us to move our tents which we had pitched as close as possible to his house to get some shelter against the wind, but the worst thing was when he smelled our petrol. He ran out of his hut, shouting angrily as if his house was already burning. This danger in fact was especially low not only because a fuel stove, when reasonably operated, is a quite safe device, but also because his house had got grass-covered walls and roof (living and growing grass!). How could you set fire to fresh green vegetation? Anyway, this time he was serious enough and we moved the tents. In the end, this was maybe not so bad: there were a couple of horse-shoe-shaped grass-walls on the campsite, each large enough for one tent. Those gave very good 270( shelter, even better than the hut. Since it was a freezing cold evening with rain coming up soon, we had no possibility but to go to the only cosy place around: our tents with the sleeping bags.
The night was unexpectedly dry and not too cold. It rained quite a bit later on but luckily was overcast only when we got up at about seven. Independently, we both had breakfast in the tents. This is one advantage when you are travelling in a country without potentially hazardous animals such as bears: you can do everything you want in your tent, including eating. We got our gear packed. then Steve followed me to the nearby restaurant for a hot coffee. I think normally Steve would not go for a coffee so often. But since it is part of the holidays for me to have a cup of coffee whenever I want to - and I am not very much concerned about any physically consequences (so far ??) - he is a good fellow and follows me. In addition, I have a great travel cup. It contains almost half a liter but looks much smaller. In all countries I know you can get your cup filled, maybe except for Germany where authorities are too much concerned about health risks, and I normally only have to pay for a small cup. Anyway, after the hot drink I felt much better and ready to attack the storm. Our plan was to come to the very west of the peninsula today, maybe to catch some good view on the Snaefellsness volcano and then to carry on as far as possible on its northern coast back towards Reykjavik. The first bit was easy. Despite of a loose gravel road and some uphills, most of it felt more like a downhill due to the help of the wind. When we approached the north-western corner, everything changed. We had a long hill, a very bad road and the wind was against us or form the left hand side. Like on the first day, we sometimes could but stop as it was impossible to keep the heavy bike on the dirt road against the ideas of the wind. The landscape there, on the other hand, is by far not as spectacular as what we had expected. Again only little vegetation, rocks and mosses, no view neither of the volcano nor of the sea because of the low clouds and the misty atmosphere. We made it somehow, but were really tired when we were back on the tarmac after about 30 km in not much less than 4 hours. On the place where gravel and asphalt join, there is also the highest manmade structure of Iceland. An antenna, 412 m of height. Its top was hidden in the clouds, but we admired the effort to built this thing and to keep it in an upright position in Icelandic weather conditions. What we did not understand: if international air-and sea traffic needs such a device, why was it not built on top of one of the numerous mountains?
The first village then is Hellissandur. A very small one, but with a service station where they provide you with hot water and instant coffee. This time I did not care about what to drink, as long as it was only hot. We did not stay very long but went on to Olafsvik where we had a very unpleasant lunch break. No, not the food. It was excellent, but we were sitting on a concrete bank without any shelter or heating or sun. Impossible to stay warm! Therefore we went inside one more service station for a hot drink for dessert. There we met Jacky, a Belgian cyclist. He told us some strange stories concerning his equipment, for example that he had brought 10 kg of food from Belgium and that his loaded bike weighed more than 50 kg. What a burden to travel with so much gear! Even my bike is lighter, and Steve is something like world champion in saving weight on a bike tour. Jacky recommended a campsite in Grudarfjordur, only about 30 km away and we decided to go there for the night.
It was an easy cycle to Grundarfjordur, it almost seemed that the wind was now a tailwind for us and a headwind for Jacky, giving him some extra difficulties on the gravel sections. Grundarfjordur is excellently sheltered against all weather evils by some perfectly placed mountains. In wonderfully symmetric shape, covered with fresh green grass, the mountains rise out of the sea to an elevation of about 500 m. The village itself is pretty to look at and offers everything of infrastructure a traveller needs. Although the campsite was slightly different than described to us, we were happy since it was a comfortable one. Free showers in the private house of the owners and a meadows to pitch the tents. What else can you expect? Yes, it was also warm (for Iceland), only a slight but steady rain prevented us from staying outside too long or to profit from the picnic tables provided.
The next morning we stocked some supplies and headed east. The whole day long we had hardly any pavement but a soft road, or due to the rain of the last night or to the work of the water trucks. Unfortunately they use in Iceland not only water as a means of dust control but also Calcium which might improve the roads but unfortunately also affects finally everything.
The coast is very fjordy what means in order to make two or three kilometres in a straight line you have to go a long way around some water inlet. Usually there is no bridge. In normal conditions we would not care about this: when touring, always the way itself is the aim. Today we were not so happy since Reykjavik was still far and there were only a few days left. God knows why, at lunchtime we were quite exhausted, in fact tired enough that Steve suggested to prepare some hot tea. What an excellent idea! When travelling by myself I am always to lazy to use the stove during the daytime, but once you are two, you encourage each other and you both have the benefits. Also at this part of the coast, steep hills, several hundred meters in height, come right to the water. They are light green, covered only with traces of grass and mosses, but sometimes there is even enough vegetation to feed some sheep. We did not come to any village during the hole day and saw only some - deserted ? - houses in a distance. When the map and a road sign announced a service station in the late afternoon we were ready for some refreshment. Unfortunately it had not opened yet. - Too early in the season!
We turned right, heading south now and back to Borgarnes, of course out of reach for the day. Over a small pass we were pushed by a strong tailwind. Even the sun came out, the land looked immediately more fertile, there were several small lakes and we had the strong feeling it was time to find a place for the night. But the wind was too perfect a tailwind to stop! There is daylight 24 hours, so why not carry on? We could not really finish these thoughts when the wind turned and the road started slightly to climb again. This reminded us of the long day we had had. No problem. Not the first lake, but a little lively river with grass on the banks made a perfect place to camp. We had some shelter from the wind, and fresh water, to cook, to wash, to swim - everybody according to his wishes.
The sun woke me up at three, four five. At six I decided to get up and could hardly believe it: Not a cloud in the sky, no immediate shivering and freezing when you leave the sleeping bag and, yes, I got it right from inside the tent, a powerful tailwind waiting for us. Steve got up early as well and before eight we were back on the road. We were flying - to the junction with the main road, back to asphalt. |
