| Submitted by: Gopal VenkatUnited States |
| Submission Date: 10 February 2005 |
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The Customs / Immigration at Piraeus (for disembarking passengers) was a joke. The entire lot of us walked off from the ship to the Taxi stand (on the shore) without showing our passports to any official. I guess the Customs / Immigration folks are lethargic (or) place a lot of trust on the cruise ships (not to take any undocumented folks during their various stops). There was a huge queue at the Taxi stand. For some reason none of the taxis that were around were coming over to our area to pick us up. Rita and me had decided to share a cab that would drop us off at our respective hotels.
After a wait of 30 minutes, we got a cab. Upon getting in, Rita informed the driver that we were to be dropped off at 2 different hotels (Myself in Koukaki and Rita in Syndagma). After nodding the driver started off towards the city. After 15 minutes of driving he told us that he would drop us both at the Plaka. When we insisted that we needed to be dropped off at 2 different hotels, he mumbled something and kept driving. He continued driving past Koukaki and near the Plaka he stopped abruptly on the left most lane and talked to a traffic cop in Greek. We told our part of the story (on wanting to be dropped at 2 different hotels). On listening to both the stories, the Cop proceeded to berate us for not speaking Greek before informing us that the driver would be doing a single drop (at Rita's Hotel) only.
Mr. Blue uniform should realize that if he insisted on every visitor learn to speak Greek before entering the country, there would be no tourists (and no traffic) and he could be sitting at home! After the driver stopped at Rita's hotel, she banged the door shut to show her displeasure. This infuriated the driver and he started screaming and yelling. Since we were in a 1-way street, a long line of cars was waiting behind us. One of the ladies on listening to our problem berated the driver and insisted that we note down the taxi number and inform the police. The cab's meter was hugely inflated as well!
On reaching Rita's hotel, we had the manager radio in a cab to drop me off at my Hotel. In all I wound up spending 2200 Drs. On my way to Piraeus (4 days ago), I spent 1900 Drs. that included a Radio call in as well. A word of advice: Avoid H-5074 (the Taxi registration Number) if you ever set foot in Athens.
On checking in at the Marble House Pension, I was given a different room where the shower was located across my room. It was still a private shower / toilet and I was given the key to access the same. In other words, no one else would be able to use it apart from me. I departed the hotel around 9 AM and headed to the American Express Offices at Syndagma Square. In addition to buying Drachmas, I bought some Pound sterling as well for my stay in the UK after this trip. The dollar had devalued in the 5 days since I left Athens. I went to a couple of Bookshops in search of books. I found a Virgin Music store and bought a 'Bouzouki' Compact Disc. I tried to do some shopping. The folks here were none too impressed by my cut-rate bargaining (offering 70-75% of the quoted price) and I ended up buying nothing. I am not the kind that gives in easily!
I returned to the hotel and had a short siesta and set out at 7 PM to visit some more bookshops. I did not find an English Language version of the Book I was looking for. I met Rita at her Hotel and we headed out to Eden, the Vegetarian Restaurant in the Plaka. I had a decent dinner in 4 days and we chatted a while. A sudden downpour started during our dinner but fortunately did not last long. After dinner we bid adieu to each other and parted. On my way back to the Hotel, I found the book on Greek Mythology I was looking for and the establishment accepted credit cards.
I returned to my Hotel, wrote my diary and turned in. I have another day of leisure tomorrow. For the first time during this entire trip, I did NOT take any Photographs during the entire day!
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I woke up later than usual and wandered to Syndagma, Monastriki and the Plaka to do some shopping. My bargaining tactics (so successfully employed in Turkey) did not work here. Nevertheless I bought a couple of Ceramic Plates depicting the Triumph of Achilles and an Athens 2004 Olympics T-Shirt! I had a light lunch and headed back to the hotel for some rest. I had booked myself to attend a Performance of 'Iphigenia at Aulis'. This was a play by Euripides and it was being held at the famed Ancient theatre of Epidaurus (Phone: 0753-22026). This theatre dates back to the 4th Century B.C. and is renowned for its acoustics.
After a brief siesta I left the hotel and took a bus to Omonia. From here I took another bus to Kifissos where the Central Bus Station is located. I bought a round-trip ticket to Epidaurus that cost me 4500 Drs. (US$ 15). The bus was to take me to Epidaurus for the Performance and drop me back at the Central Bus Station after the performance. We departed from Kifissos at 5 PM. After crossing the Corinth Canal the scenery was quite enjoyable. The journey time to Epidaurus from Athens is around 2 ˝ hours. We had a break after traveling for an hour and a half. I used this opportunity to get something to eat. On reaching Epidaurus, the bus driver gave us specific instructions on where the bus was parked and how to get back to the bus. I noted down the license plates of the bus since many of them look alike.
My telephone call yesterday was merely to have a booking. I wound up in the wrong queue and finally wound up paying 6000 Drs. (US$ 20) for the performance. The English language program was an additional 2000 Drs. This is something unique to Europe. I can never understand why they don't charge a couple of dollars more and provide the program for free (as they do in the USA). As I mentioned earlier this theatre dates back to the 4th Century B.C. As with my other experiences (in Turkey), I was here more for the setting than for comprehending every word. It was Greek to me anyway!
The Performance was to start at 9 PM and finally started at 9:30 PM. Despite the instructions for no flash photography and no smoking, there were plenty of both during the performance. What a bunch of dimwits!
Iphigenia was dressed up in white indicating Purity / Virginity / Goodness. Almost all the other cast members (especially the male members) sported western clothes. I was quite disappointed in not seeing all the performers in ancient costumes. I can understand if this were being staged in Covent Garden (London) or in Off Broadway theatre in Gotham City (New York for the Uninitiated) where they may give a modern twist to the play by sporting western clothes. However, when you are performing an Ancient Play in an Ancient setting, I expect the performers to wear Ancient Costumes.
The Highlight was the 18-women Greek chorus that filled in the Gaps between the various Acts. They were good and so were the 3-member band that played the Music during the Play. After listening to the loud and shrill 'miked' performances on Broadway, this was great. There were at least 10,000 people on hand for the performance, played in a natural setting with no Microphones. This is pure theatre.
The authorities should definitely prevent people from smoking anywhere in these environs if they intend to preserve this for future generations. Then again, whom am I kidding? This is Greece!
The Play was over by 11:30 PM and the bus departed Epidaurus around 12:10 AM. I slept most of the way. We reached Kifissos around 2:30 AM. I shared a taxi with 2 ladies and the driver dropped each of us at our respective streets. I would up paying 1000 Drs as my share. I only wish that I had spent at least half-a-day exploring the ruins at Epidaurus. I could have done it this morning instead to engaging in some shopping.
I leave Greece for London tomorrow. I have experienced quite a bit of history in the past 15 days. In my opinion Greece is an expensive place with extremely poor service. It is certainly not a bang for the buck. (Which is my Credo)
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I woke up around 5 AM after a 90-minute sleep. I was at the lobby around 5:45 AM. The taxi was waiting with the meter at 600 Drs. The driver informed me that he had been waiting for 15 minutes. Why did he have to arrive 15 minutes early (I had requested a pickup at 5:45 AM) and charge me for the waiting, god only knows? I did not feel like starting the day with an argument so I let it slide by. The drive to the Airport was 20 minutes. With the Radio Call, the nighttime charge (all cabs charge a night fare between 10 PM and 6 AM) and the tip, I paid 3500 Drs. (US$ 12)
The flight departed to Milan on time. I slept most of the way. The flight from Milan to London was delayed by an hour. I reached London a little after noon and took a cab to my Hotel, which was 3 miles from the Airport. I rested and repacked by bags for the rest of the day. I headed to an Indian restaurant for dinner and had a contented dinner.
I plan on doing some sightseeing tomorrow.
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I woke up late and had a leisurely breakfast. Since the Travel card is valid only after 9:30 AM, I had a wait of 20 minutes at the Train station before buying the card. I headed to Russell Square station and on to the British Museum. This was primarily to see the stuff stolen from Greece and Turkey. Despite the Glorified theft, the collection here is fantastic. The entrance to the museum is free and a donation of 2 Pounds is suggested. I paid 2 pounds before going in. Flash Photographs are permitted all over the museum (except where explicitly prohibited). This was Music to my ears. This is something that should be observed and implemented in museums around the world. With all the liberalism here, you have idiots who go about touching their exhibits with their filthy hands. (I don't care how clean your hands are. Your sweaty palms should never touch these artifacts, period).
I spent around 3 ˝ hours here. I could have easily spent the whole day here. The Computer generated simulation of the construction of the Parthenon is quite good. The Artifacts from the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (in Room 12) is excellent. There is much more here from this ancient wonder of the world than there is in Istanbul (or) at Bodrum (where the Mausoleum was located). King Maussollos was buried here and hence the word Mausoleum. The Assyrian collection from the ancient city of Nineveh is superb. There is an excellent collection of Egyptian and Asian artifacts (from China and India, in particular).
At least the British were not as barbaric as the Spaniards who just plundered and destroyed wherever they went in South America. The English at least had the taste to 'collect' these artifacts from their far-flung empire and display these in a London Museum. Despite being a sore subject for folks like me whose countries were one part of an 'empire, where the sun never sets', the collection here is quite extensive and is displayed well.
Following this, I spent some time at an Internet café and caught up with a friend before heading back to my hotel and packing up for my departure to India tomorrow. My Travels that started in May 1999 have ended (temporarily anyway). I am heading to India to take a 2-month rest. These travels have been tiring. The Sabbatical has been good. I hope I get a job later!
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Blue Guide - Greece
By Robin Barber
Published by AC Black (London) and WW Norton (New York)
ISBN: 0-393-31273-9
This is the only guidebook, I carried with me during my Travels in Greece. With this around, you don't need any guides for the explanations at the various sites. This deals extensively in History / Archaeology of the various ruins. It also tells the reader on how to reach a specific site. It does NOT provide Hotel / Restaurant listings or recommendations. In short, an Excellent Book.
Greek Mythology and Religion
By Maria Mavromataki
Published by Haitalis
This book can be obtained in Greece. It costs around US$ 10. It gives an overview of the Various Greek Gods / Goddesses / Heroes along with a brief overview of the ancient Customs. The Book does not have an ISBN number which leads me to believe that it cannot be obtained outside Greece.
Greek - Phrase Book and Dictionary
Published by Berlitz
ISBN: 2-8315-6237-6
Do buy the above phrasebook or any other Greek Phrasebook and practice your Greek before you depart for Greece. It will definitely come in quite handy.
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Rec.Travel Library: The World - Europe - Greece
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| Copyright © - "Gopal Venkat" |
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