Very brief summary: This is the account, in excruciating detail, of a 33-year-old man and his liver's solo biking and camping tour of soggy Northern Europe (Netherlands, Germany, Denmark, Sweden, Finland) in June and July of 1995. To be candid the entire trip was not by bike; I sold the bike about two weeks before the end. So sue me.
Disclaimer: Any views expressed in this document are solely those of the author (who is anonymous anyway) and do not reflect those of his employer (also unspecified). This file contains some colorful language yet no violence (happily) nor sex (sadly); if this were a movie it would be PG-13. If you are a shrinking violet, quit reading now. I don't want to hear you bitching otherwise.
This file is almost verbatim from the journal I scrawled in during the trip. There was a lot of, well, bullshit, in the hand-written notes that I've omitted from what you're now reading. I spent much time transcribing, but, admittedly, not much in proof-reading. My time is limited so I make no claim that this is a refined, polished travelogue that would make an English teacher swell with admiration. I passed the end product through a spell checker but certain errors can escape notice. Sew pleas four give me foreign knee miss steaks you Mayan counter.
Abbreviations that are used in this document, or not:
NL = Netherlands ('Holland')
NLG = Netherlands Guilders (money)
DK = Denmark
DKR = Danish Kroner (money)
SE = Sweden
SKR = Swedish Kroner (money unit)
GE = Germany
DM = Deutsche (German) Mark
FI = Finland
FM = Finish Markka (Money)
USD = United States Dollar (Money at or near record low against the above currencies)
HI = Hosteling International, Parent Organization for the Hostels
OK enough crap. Onward to the travelogue!
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1300 (most times will be local times) Arrived safely at Schipol Airport (Amsterdam, NL). As I did not bring needed tools to assemble the bike I hunted for a taxi to transport me to the nearest bicycle shop. After trying one taxi and finding that my large bike box would not fit in the trunk I sadly returned to the help desk inside. A helpful Dutchman, part time tour guide, said that he'd be glad to transport me (for a fee of course) to the first available bike shop. He even called several shops for me to find on that could do the assembly. He worried me when he said that the first few shops had waiting lists of up to one week for service. The 3rd or 4th shop was free, however. He transported me in a mini-bus to a cycle shop in Haarlem for about $50. The cost to assemble the bike was NLG 40. It appeared that no damage had occurred to the bike or other luggage, although the box was somewhat torn up. That is normal for airlines.
I spent the nights of 06-02 and 06-03 at the Hostel (HI) 'Jan Gitzjen' in Haarlem. The weather was reasonably good but quite windy at times. Little did I know the lousy weather that soon plague my trip. I have visited Zandvoort, getting quite lost but finally finding it. It is too cold or windy to go into the surf. It's a built-up area, would be quite nice in hot beach weather, but it's still spring here. Also visited the Kennemer Duinen National Park adjacent to Zandvoort. There are lovely walking and biking trails through the scrub brush, grasses and sand dunes here. Photo: web-covered vegetation, some type of caterpillar creates this odd scene. 06-04, 06-05 are both holidays -- 'Pinkster-' something. Virtually everything is closed except museums. On these days I ate reasonably priced (NLG 15-22) dinners each evening. Curious note: on Friday (?) 06-03 I tried my debit card which worked. The odd thing is that I asked for NLG 300 but the receipt said '75 OPNAME,' not mentioning the amount actually received (NLG 300). It'll be interesting to see what the debit to my account is.
As of Monday 06-05 evening I am happy so far except the weather is cool and damp. It did not rain (today) but is still threatening to do so. Oh yeah, I called Mom this noon and chatted. She is still not feeling as well as normal. I was sorry to hear that she's not feeling well, but during my trip, it was great to call Mom using Mom's credit card!
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I visited Zaanse Schans -- free admission. It is OK, not the best open-air folk village I've seen or would see. It is a fairly small collection of shops, homes, windmills, etc. Many of the 'exhibits' are, true to Dutch commercial legacy, shops that sell cheese, clocks, and other tourist trinkets to visitors from such nations as Japan and Spain and others I couldn't identify. Living on a bike limits the junk one can carry, even if money were not a limiting factor. I fell for the old 'buy your photo' (NLG 6) and now I have a memento to send home [which arrived, slightly dog-eared .... most of my postcards, surprisingly, fared better on their trans-Atlantic voyages to addressees.] I spent tonight in a 'camping' (European term for a campground; will be used subsequently) in Heiloo which is 4 Km from Alkmaar, the famous cheese town. I plan to explore Alkmaar on 06-07 and then continue north.
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18:49 I made it from Alkmaar to Den Helder, Texel today. The distance was not huge, maybe 32 Km. The weather stinks: cool, drizzly, and very windy. I got up early (0400?) and was off by 0700 this morning. As stated the weather is VERY disappointing. I did not even stop in Alkmaar as sort-of-planned and only briefly in Den Helder. I visited the 'VVV' (Dutch Tourist Offices in many towns) and found nothing really useful. I took the boat over to Texel and pitched camp by 1700. It's very windy here, so much that cycling is difficult. More is the pity because Texel is supposed to have excellent scenery. I DID take a few photos (2). If high winds continue I won't do much touring on Texel. Texel is a popular summer resort but a sweater and rain jacket are more appropriate today than a bathing suit. Few people are here and most of them are caravanners (mobile home owners) or car campers. The Swedish alcohol stove worked, amazingly, even in 20-30 MPH gusts. It was, however, difficult to light with my Bic. Memo: Bring Thermite Grenade next time (joke). Dinner was instant soup ('Kip' noodles ) and Wasa crispbread crackers with Gouda cheese and 'Snijworst' (salami-like cold cut). Beverage tonight was 'Trappist Tripel' (beer) with a potent 8-9% alcohol level. Using the walkman, I'm listening to a station playing Top 40 (Yuk!) but at least the songs are in English. The news is, of course, in Dutch. At least I understand the names of countries: Bosnia, Serbia, Croatia, etc. as the civil war progresses there. Yesterday's wash is 'drying' (ha ha !) on a nearby barbedwire fence. The barbed wire works quite well; it snags the cloth and helps prevent them from blowing away. [Memo: next trip, bring real clothes line and clothes pins, or perhaps barbed wire?]. My tent, flapping loudly, stands unsteadily against the ceaseless gale. The sun appears to be staying out more. Well the days are very long this time of year. Observation on the absurdities of life: It rained most of the day. I was drenched. Not it's mostly sunny. Of course now I'm in my tent, drinking beer, listening to the radio. Thoughts about tenting so far (3rd site?) no major complaints -- I am obviously still in low season. There are others but maybe the campings are only 20% full. Some campings have amenities such as microwave ovens, laundry, or sauna. All have toilets and showers, thank goodness. Most have kitchens or at least gas/electric burners and sinks for washing up. However tonight's camping has an excellent store but non-existent kitchen and laundry (hours 1000-1700, that's why my clothing is attempting to dry on the aforementioned barbed wire fence.) Shower/Sink/WC ['Watercloset' = toilet ] usually OK -- have not checked current location. Make note: June in NL = April in VA !!! It is COOL here. Price I pay: I think spring/fall are best seasons. [I probably meant this about USA]. Extremely hot weather is rare here.
What is missing? I do wish, sometimes, I had friend(s) along. I realize I have chosen an unusual form of holiday. Despite this I think I'm having a good time, 7 days into the trip. As before: I would like some HOT sun so I can tan (burn?) Use up my bought sunblock, and see naked women oops I mean get a good suntan. There is still July and August in Denmark and Sweden.
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Thu. 06-08 (reported a day late)
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Today I left Texel enveloped in incredibly crappy weather. It's still cold, rainy, and very windy. Today's route was north along the Waddenzee/IJsellmeer dike -- several kilometers long. To the wind's credit it was mostly a tail wind. At times it was so strong that at those infrequent places not protected by the dike I was literally pushed along by the wind without needing to pedal. I could tack just like a sailboat. I am quite glad I didn't have to go against the wind on such a day. In such lousy times any excuse is good enough for a rest break, and there is a monument mid-way on the dike. This exhibit details in several languages, fortunately including English, the history and construction of this area of Holland. The dike was built in 1932 and provides much arable land as well as protection against the North Sea floods if not its abominable weather. The Dutch should have settled DC (swamp); possibly Philadelphia would have made a better capital (and coffeehouses would be legal here?) Following the windy ride I stopped for a late, leisurely and huge lunch in Zurich (Netherlands, not Switzerland) for about NLG 22, a bit high for my budget, I was barely able to finish: 2 baked fish (of unknown but tasty type), 4 huge side dishes of home fries, green beans, steamed carrots, and some type of fresh salad. I believe this to be an authentic 'local dish' and it certainly satisfied this ravenous cyclist. I complained about the weather and the proprietor said that this was unusually bad weather for the time of year. Come evening the weather was (Gee, what a surprise!) cold, damp, windy, this time in a town named Franeker. Dinner included the local version of Black Label ('Brouwers Bier') and tasted about as one would expect for the price ( about NLG 6 ). I guess there is crappy beer in Europe after all. This was news to me.
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