The bus now costs FEC1100 This is now so expensive that it is no longer the cheapest way to get to Lhasa from Chengdu: it's cheaper to fly direct. Independent busses may charge less (eg FEC 300) but you will probably be caught at the checkpoints en route, you will most likely be sent back and fined. The advatage of travelling via Golmud is that you are almost guaranteed to be issued a travel permit.
|
The plane costs c.FEC1300(?) However you will need a travel permit and at present Chengdu PSB do not seem to be issuing them, forcing people to buy a 3-day tour, and then stay on afterwards.
|
At present you cannot obtain a China Visa in Kathmandu and then cross the border into Tibet; however if you have already got your China Visa form elsewhere they will let you across the border. People arriving in Kathmandu without a visa are travelling to Lhasa using three day mini-tours which come with a 10 day Visa (extendable)
|
As is now commom practise in PRC, in Lhasa and Shigatse you can get maximum of two 15 day extensions to your visa.
-Note:
Around the politically sensitive anniversaries in April and June this year they stopped issuing travel permits in Golmud, stopped extending visas and stopped letting individuals across the border from Nepal.
|
This FAQ is aimed at everyone who wishes to travel to Tibet. The advice about travel regulations applies mainly to non-chinese. If you are a ROC citizen or HK citizen travel will be easier. If you are a PRC citizen, I m sure you can tell me more about it than I can tell you. (please mail me, I'd be interested to include this information too)
'In 1979 when the first western tourists were permitted a peek at Lhasa by the Chinese only 1200 Westerners had ever seen the holy city (including some 600 invading members of the Younghusband Expedition of 1903-4)'
from 'Tibet a travel survival kit' Lonely Planet Guide
Tibet is always put forward as the stereotypical remotest place in the world, but travel to Tibet is not so much of a problem as you may think. As I write Tibet is open to individual travellers, so if you have a bit of spare cash you could be there in thirty or forty hours.(or sooner if you live nearby)
|
| First a bit of travel history |
China first opened up to western travellers in 1979. As an individual traveller only a very few cities were open. A special permit was needed for each one. At each city you could ask for a permit to the next one and so work your way round. Tibet was not open officially, but some smooth operators managed to take advantage of the local PSB (police) inexperience in dealing with foreigners. They sweet talked and conned themselves into Tibet
Now most places in China do not require a special permit to visit them - a passport and visa is enough.
However many parts of Tibet are still strictly off-limits.
|
| Group Tourist or Individual Tourist? |
If you want to go to Tibet as an individual traveller you can do this: Individual travel is sometimes a problem, sometimes no problem. It depends on where you want to go: While individual travel to Lhasa has at times been restricted (eg '89 - '91) other parts of Tibet have been open to individual travellers all the time.
Since 1979 group tourism has been possible in Tibet. There are few logistical problems, you pick your tour, pay your money and go. If that is your style then OK, but I would encourage you to consider individual travel. The main disadvantage of group travel is that you will end up with an un-balanced view of the situation there.
eg during 1988 if there were small demons
trations around the Jokang (as there were regularly at that time) Group tourists were told that the minibus from the Lhasa Holiday Inn was broken and they would not be able to go into the city centre.
eg Chinese tour guides can feed their clients with information reflecting the party line on historical and political issues.
The proceeds of group travel go directly into the coffers of the Chinese Government. If you travel as an individual, you can spend your money with Tibetans.
As an individual traveller you have the opportunity to make friendly contact with the local people, something you wont be able to do so easily as part of a group.
Individual travel is not as hard as you might think. In the end the choice is yours.
Note:
Do not confuse an organised Group tour booked from home with some of the cheap two or three day tours you might have to buy in Kathmandu to get you across the border. (see below)
In Kathmandu there are also some Tibetan-run tour co-operatives organising tours. I have no further details.
|
| Making the Most of Your Trip |
Support Tibetan people by spending your money with them. After all they are the reason that you want to visit in the first place. Use only Tibetan restaurants and shops.
If you want Chinese food YOU SHOULD GO TO BEIJING!!!!!!! Don't let Chinese immigrants benefit from your tourism! You do not go to Tibet to see them, SO DON'T LET THEM BENEFIT!!!
Tibetan culture is far removed from western culture. To get the most out of your trip, read about Tibetan culture and history before you go. (not after you get home!) Don't expect to understand it just by looking. If you don't understand it, how can you expect to appreciate it?
Understand the political and cultural background to today's situation.
|
Tibetan culture is under attack.
If you show some interest in it the local people will most likely be very appreciative towards you.
DO NOT go around photographing the local people as you would animals in a zoo Show some respect. Ask people first, at least. -If all you want is photographs then stay at home and buy of those coffee-table books full of glossy photos. Its far cheaper.
|
| Learn a bit of the Tibetan Language:
|
get a phrase book and GET TALKING! English will get you nowhere, so you've got to learn something.
Tibetans will be glad that you have taken trouble to learn some of their language, unlike most Chinese immigrants who just can't be bothered.
Instant friends guaranteed.
I'm convinced you can make more friends with ten words of Tibetan than if you spoke fluent Chinese.
Tibetan is good for dealings with officialdom too. No one may understand though .
(gya kay haku mason = I don't understand chinese) ;-)
|
Sometimes Hitching is a convenient way to travel, but its illegal for foreigners to do so. 'So what?' you may say, but please consider the driver of the truck. He could end up with a very large fine and lose his driving license This would be a severe blow as a truck driver is a lucrative profession. So don't be surprised if no one gives you a lift. If you do get a lift watch out for police checkpoints which are here and there.
|
Much of the culture was destroyed between 1951-1979. Whilst Tibetans in Tibet are making every effort to re-establish their culture in the face of officialdom, you may come away with the idea that there's not much culture left.
It's there alright, just it's not everywhere. you've got to go looking for it sometimes. This is where the freedom of individual travel comes in handy.
|
| Those amongst us who insist on going to closed places or overstaying their visas will get into trouble with the PSB. They are wiser than they were a few years ago and not as lenient. |
|
|
