-Labrang Trashikil: (Chinese name Xiahe) This Important monastery might look impressive, but if you compare it with the photo in 'The Anye-Ma-Chhen Range and Adjacent Regions' by J F Rock (1956) you will see that half of it has been destroyed.
Still, plenty too see. Get yourself into the surrounding countryside too. Read an account of the destruction and looting of the monastery in 'Tibet behind the Ice Curtain' by Vanya Kewley. pp 314-319 -There are other places open between Labrang and Zoige which is in Sichuan province, you can travel this road, but don't just do it in the bus - stop, get off and explore!
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-Kanding: (Tib. Dartsedo) Called Tasienlu in some books. This is the old border of Tibet. There's not too much Tibetan culture to see here now.There used to be a huge Catholic cathedral, but not any more!
-Ganze: More Tibetan than Kanding. the road between the two is also interesting.
-Aba: This place is hard to get to (only by permit, and you cant have one!) There have been some disturbances here too. Lots of Tibetan culture here, so I'm told. The Monastery in Aba, Kidje Gompa (spelling??) has two thousand monks, making it the largest in all Tibet.
(I think this bit's true, but would stand corrected??)
-Litang (no info)
-Batang (no Info)
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-Lhasa, and the road to Nepal and Golmud are officially open to individuals. This may change and does not imply that you will be alowed to travel there.
-Shigatse is open at present. If Lhasa is open Shigatse will be too. -Other places may or may not be open. Ask for a permit at your friendly local PSB.
I have only mentioned the towns. The countryside is far more Tibetan than the towns, which are usually modern built with concrete appartment blocks. They suffered most in the liberation and the cultural revolution. It involves a bit more effort to travel in the countryside, but is far more rewarding.
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You can fly into Lhasa, and there's a train to Xining and Golmud. For everywhere else you'll have to get the bus! Go to the long distance bus station early in the morning and buy a ticket! Who says individual travel is hard?
Obviously if you are in Kathmandu and Lhasa is closed, then you are stuck. you can't enter Tibet from Kathmandu without going through Lhasa. On the other hand if you are in HK and Lhasa is closed you can still go to loads of places in East Tibet.
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| This is the trickiest bit. The situation changes all the time. I cannot stress that enough. One person's experiences will be different from the next. |
| -From Golmud: Golmud is always open. From there you can take the bus to Lhasa. To buy the ticket you may or may not need a permit. You can get the permit from the PSB (police). They may or may not issue you with one. Try it. Hitching is also possible, but read my comments above about the risks. As of summer 1994 this bus costs FEC1100 (one thousand one hundred) |
| -From Chengdu: Getting the Plane Ticket is not a problem. You can buy this from any CAAC (or what ever its now called) office even in HK. Getting the reservation is another thing. For this you may need a permit from Chengdu PSB and they may or may not give you one. Cost c. FEC1300. |
-From Kathmandu: As an individual you may or may not be allowed to cross the border, or get a flight. You will almost always be able to get into Tibet by joining a very short group-tour once you're in Kathmandu. This is how most people do it.
Once you've been in Tibet for a couple of days your tour will end you and you can stay for as long as your visa will allow. (you can TRY and extend your visa once you're there). Cost of the tour US200-300. You can't join such a group from home, you can only arrange it from Kathmandu. [see above 'Getting The Visa']
Due to the political situation, things can change rapidly. But apart from during martial law (89 - 90) there have been individual travellers in Lhasa every year.
Any sniff of trouble and they'll drastically reduce the number of tourists by not letting you fly in and by closing the border with Nepal to foreigners. You may still be able to get in from Golmud however if you try hard enough. If you do get through you'll most probably be tolerated in Lhasa as the city authorities want to encourage tourism. It's the National officials who want to stop you getting there.
All other overland routes (mentioned in the Lonely Planet Guide) are not allowed, you will have to be very clever to avoid being caught, and so you will not be free to enjoy the places along the way. They are not a fast way to get to Lhasa, but they are possible. Its easier to leave Tibet by such routes.
If you have your heart set on Lhasa, then my advice is this: Go to HK then on to Chengdu. Try the plane from Chengdu. If this fails go to Golmud and try from there. If you still can't manage it then go back to visit the places in Eastern Tibet.
And one final hint:
The more you want to get to Lhasa, the more likely you will succeed. |
Text of a notice currently displayed in all Lhasa Hotels: |
Ladies and Gentleman
Welcome to Lhasa. So that you may have a safe and enjoyable travels, we would like you to be aware of the following government regulations:
Foreigners travelling in China must abide by Chinese law and must not endanger the national security of China, harm its Public interests, disturb the Public order, or engage in any other acticvities incompatible with tourists status.
If Chinese citizens are holding a rally or demonstration, it is strictly forbidden for foreigners to participation, follow along with, take pictures or video film any of these affairs. Foreigners are not allowed to interfere in Chinese internal affairs.
Foreigners are forbidden to distribute any propaganda material and join in any religious activity.
In accordance with regulations, foreigner tourists must go through all registration formalities and stay only at a designated hotel. Without prior permission it is forbidden to travel in unopened areas, to use undesignated transportation, to operate individual business or privately take up an occupation.
It's forbidden to visit and photograph the sky burial site according to the local government's regulations for the minority nationality's habits and customs. The tourist who breaks the regulation will be punished strictly.
For safety reasons, it is strictly forbidden for foreign tourists to travel by tractor or other privately operated means of transport. If by any chance a traffic accident happens, under these circumstances you will be responsible for your own actions and the results.
Valuables should deposit in checkroom, otherwise, the hotel won't be responsible for the loss.
Bureau of Foreign Affairs & Tourism of Lhasa
[with stamp in Chinese and Tibetan]
Travel Bureau of ChendGuan District
Division of Aliens and Exit-Entry
[with stamp in Chinese and Tibetan]
Admistration Lhasa P.S.B
[with stamp in Chinese and Tibetan]
June 17 1994
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-Guide book: Lonely Planet Tibet Guide is good. (There are plenty of others too )
-Phrasebook: Lonely Planet Tibet Phrasebook is OK. Get one with Tibetan script written in it, that way even if you can't pronounce the phonetics you can point at the words and people will understand.
Tibetan Politics and History:
-'In exile from the Land of The Snows' by John F Avendon Pub 1984 in the USA by Knopf. In UK by Wisdom.
This book gives an account of the events between 1951-1979 as well as sections on Tibetan culture and history. Its only covers one side of the spectrum of thoughts on the Tibet issue, so for another perspective try:
-'Tibet Transformed' by Israel Epstein pub 1983 New World Press (Beijing) This is book covers similar topics to 'In exile from the Land of The Snows' but gives the Chinese version.
-'100 Questions about Tibet' by Jing Wei pub 1989 Beijing Review Publications Interesting Question and Answer format which makes clear the PRC view on Political and human rights issues. A Chinese FAQ on Tibet!
Recent Politics:
-'Defying the Dragon - China and Human Rights in Tibet' published by LAWASIA and TIN. This must be the definitive guide to the current political situation inside Tibet. Very good indeed. -'Merciless Repression - Human Rights in Tibet' Asia Watch
A Chinese perspective to this can be found in '100 Questions about Tibet' mentioned above.
Tibetan Culture:
There are plenty of old travel books from which you can learn quite a bit about Tibetan culture. I'd recommend:
-'Seven Years In Tibet' by Heinrich Harrer
-'Magic and Mystery in Tibet' by Alexandra David-Neel
also a more academic tome:
-'A Cultural History of Tibet' by David Snellgrove and Hugh Richardson
There are plenty of other books on Tibet too.
Good luck!
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Any updated information or corrections or comments would be appreciated. andrew@dorje.demon.co.uk
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