| Submitted by: Erik Futtrup SoerensenUnited States |
| Submission Date: 10 February 2005 |
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Bispehavevej 31, 2.tv,
DK-8210 Aarhus V,
Denmark
The following story is an authentic and precise description of our adventures in Sri Lanka in January and February 1991. It is a direct translation of my Danish text, and the prices mentioned are with currency rates from February 1991 - that is 1US$=6.15DKR, 1US$=1.54DM, 100rs=2.50US$, 1US$=40rs. I have used US currency, since most of my readers (in English) are from 'over there'.
I, my brother (Kurt) and a friend (Niels), traveled in Asia for 2 months of which 13 days were in Sri Lanka. I study Computer Science (fourth year) in Aarhus; I'm 23. Kurt is 20 and has just started studying to mechanical engineer in Aarhus. Niels is a former school-pal and wanted to see the world as well. Sri Lanka has the shape of a drop of water and is 4/3 the size of Denmark. The island has high mountains in the middle (2-3000m - 6500-9500ft); Colombo is the capital; 15 million people; 70% are Sinhalese and Buddhists; 20% are Tamils (live on Jaffna in the north and on the north-east coast - they are Hindu.
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After spending 2 days in Karachi in Pakistan, we looked forward to Sri Lanka. The only thing one could buy in Pakistan was posters of Saddam Hussein on his white horse and the boys had yelled 'Bush, Bush, Bush' at us. Arrival at 8pm - local time. When we get off the plane, we are greeted by warm and moist air. It feels rather strange compared to the rain and cold of the Danish winter. No problems in the Immigration and the customs. Immediately afterwards, we are dragged into an office by a man who wants to help us, he says. The help turns out to be some very nice hotels by the beach at 400rs (rupees), and after a bit of talking, that the cheapest is 250rs!! (we could see for our selves in his picture catalogue! Nothing cheaper at all!). I said 'No Thanks', and we left. Our 'guide' (Sri Lanka - A travel survival kit - hereafter TSK) wrote that 30-70rs/person was more normal for budget-travellers - furthermore it seemed expensive to us, since our bank had changed our money at 24rs per US$. It later turned out that the rate here was 40. We called YMCA in Colombo (the airport is 25km (15miles) north of Colombo). It was hard to hear what was said on the phone, so we decided to go there. A Dane we had met in Karachi came to us and offered that we could come with him to Colombo. At this time of the day, not many busses came, so we had to take a taxi - we had to pay 600rs (15$)!! We thought it was rather expensive and a rather bad start. We'll hear more about the Dane later; we never found out his name, but we called him Larsen [a very typical Danish name - like Smith in England]. Larsen was a rather small man with thick glasses. He had lived in the mountains of Sri Lanka for 10 years. He had a chicken farm there.
It was a rather special trip to Colombo. It was full moon and for the Sri Lankan people, it is a special night. A very special atmosphere. Everybody were out walking along the road (it seemed) - the young people hand in hand; cicadas singing; contour of the palm trees; the vendors; 25 degrees (77F).
We got off at the YMCA. They confirmed that they were all full. Larsen took us to the bus station - he knew a place south of town where he sometimes stayed overnight. Now, a bus stop in Sri Lanka is not by a sign which says where the different busses departs to and when. No, you are standing in a crowd and when a bus comes, the ticket collector shouts out of the door, where to the bus drives - and then some jumps on. The bus hardly stops. After waiting for 10 minutes, some auto-rickshaws (three-wheeled mopeds with a sofa behind the driver) wanted us to drive with them.
After a little longer of waiting in vain, we accepted the offer. They would drives us to Moratuwa in two auto-rickshaws for 300rs (7.50$) - Larsen wanted to pay for us. Kurt and I in one of them; Niels and Larsen in the other. The air felt very warm and it was 20km (13miles) through the suburbs of Colombo. The drivers were very lively and overtook each other often - they even exchanged a cigarette while driving 50km/ph (31m/ph). 'Our' driver told us about the different buildings we passed. The place we came to, was very close to the Indian Ocean. It had a very big gate and we tried to wake the porter several times (the time was 10:45pm), a big, black person looked out - he was stripped to the waist and wore only a sarong - he only needed a scimitar then he could have come from 1001 night. The owner came too and when he recognized Larsen, he let us in. The luggage was carried out. The 3 of us only had a backpack each. Larsen had 3 suitcases and a attachicase. Larsen could not find the last mentioned and started to look for it. He only looked in one of the rickshaws - he did not hear me telling him that it wasn't the one he came in. The drivers got their money and drove away. Larsen thought it was carried inside. We went inside to get a room. Larsen now found out that his case was completely gone; that the drivers had stolen it. He was furious - Mein God in Hell! He tells us that he had 60.000rs in it, all his documents, travel-checks, the present for his son, etc. He speaks a funny mix of Danish and English to us. 'My God, hvad skal I do ?' We tell him that he should call the police. Kurt might remember the licence number - he had noticed it in case we should become separated. Larsen gets the porter to call the police but can't get through. We have had two rooms and we go there. The 3 of us takes one of them. We sit and talk for a while with Larsen. The owner comes back and tells us that the police will call back later. We are probably aware that nothing is going to happen this way. We all have a low spirit and in a way feel guilty in not being able to do more. Of course we offer to help with different things the next day.
Our fan quickly helped us fall asleep in spite of the heat. We kind of felt that it was much better at home and we were wasting a lot of money; and that everybody outside Denmark were not of the best kind. I am always an optimist so perhaps it was mostly Kurt and Niels who felt like that.
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Day 2: 30 January
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We get up (hmmm ?) and get ready to leave the hotel (Blue Horizon). We talk about what to do and decide to stay a day here and then go to Colombo and settle important matters. Then we could hear what Larsen had found out during the day. We were allowed to go with the hotel's car into town - the owner had some errands to do. We spoke quite a bit with the driver while the owner is in the bank. We buy 6 bananas for 11rs (25c) - our first conversation with someone who don't speak English. We get about 1/4 of the way to the center. The driver gets us on a bus and we squeeze in. Our first bus ride in a third world country was something special. You stand packed like sardines [the Danish expression: like salmon in a barrel] but people have no problem getting in and out, they just squeeze a little more and there is ALWAYS room for just one more... Bus fare: 3rs (7c for 25km (16miles)). Gradually we all got to sit down. A man (or a boy) is standing in the doorway yelling whereto the bus is driving and people then jump on. He gets his rupees and the people squeeze in.
We get off at the Central Railway Station and look for a place to withdraw money. An old man accosts us and wants to change rupees for 45rs per US$ (official rate was 40). We say no, but talk about it afterwards and decide that we could change a few dollars at rate 50. Along the road, we meet the old man again and when he asks us again, we say that we want to change 40US$ for 2000rs. We thought is pretty normal, like in East-Europe, to do it this way. OK, all we have to do is follow him a few blocks from here. Wait here - he is going to fetch his money box. 10 minutes later he is back with another man who wants to know what size the bills are. 10$ bills, we say. We are to go forth and back so not to arouse suspicion (how can one do that when you are the only white people ???). Kurt and Niels are to stay at the main street. The man gives me an envelope - I put the money in it. He shakes his head and is obviously very nervous. I'm doing it wrong - and I shall be more careful - people are looking! He takes the envelope and closes it and fumbles with it. He gives me back the envelope and show me that the money still are there. I am to go back to the others. Then he'll come with the 2000rs and we switch envelopes. I get there and we decide that we are doing something very wrong and decides to leave. A young man talks to me and says that we should look in the envelope - he knows the guys we were dealing with and he says that they were people one shouldn't mess around with. PAPER! The man shows us which way they went - gone, of course.... A very nice trick - and we were taught a lesson for life. Afterwards we were rather sour at our selves and we didn't want to be cheated anymore!
After that, we withdraw money - there is only one bank in Colombo where you can withdraw from your credit card (and only Visa and MasterCard). Hongkong - Shanghai Bank. We buy stamps and reserves a room at the YMCA for the last night before departure to Bangkok. They are not happy to do that for us; it takes quite some time of persuading and insurance that we would pay in advance. YMCA also has a cheap cafeteria - 25rs (62c) for a meal and drinks - the food was a bit dirty though, and the foodcontrol would probably complain about the kitchen.
We go back to the hotel by train (8rs - 20c) and it is very beautiful along the coast line - beautiful palm beaches and rivers ending out in small lagoons.
Larsen is at the hotel when we get back. He is very happy but looks a bit tired. He tells us his story:
He had not been able to sleep and had left for town at 4am. First he went to the place where we were picked up. No luck there. He finds the police station of this district. The time is now about 7am and the chief of the police listens to Larsen's story. He also tells the taxi number which Kurt remembered. Then Larsen waits for 2 hours. The police come back with the two drivers. 'That's him!!!', Larsen says, and points out his driver. He is then told that the two guys had not turned up for 'work' this morning. All taxis have regular places and that was the reason why it was pretty easy to find out who it was. The police had then gone to his cottage and dragged him to the station. He refused all knowledge of what had happened. They questioned him for a while. The chief got quite angry with the man and pulled out a big iron pipe. First he was hit on his toes then on his knees, legs, back, arms and not until he had taken several hits in his head, had he admitted his guilt. 'Oh, My God, det var terrible! - jeg har never set anysing like it!', Larsen said with his special accent and shook his head. Then the guy was told the following: You now have 1 1/2 hour to get the briefcase - and everything that was in it! If you don't come back, then you can use the opportunity to say goodbye to your wife and children for you will not see them again for the next 7 years! Larsen had spend the waiting time making a list of everything in the briefcase. The guy came back alone after 2 hours. Larsen could instantly see that the lock on the briefcase was broken. It was obvious that it had been emptied and searched since the things weren't at their right places. |
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