| Submitted by: Evelyn C. Leeper United States |
| Submission Date: 09 February 2005 |
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For example, both have calligraphic tickets of a sort that we've gotten nowhere else.
Here, as at Kiyomizu-dera, you climb up the mountain for a view of Kyoto. This is not like Tokyo, which goes on forever; Kyoto has definite edge on either side, being bounded by mountains.
The 'Silver Pavilion' itself is not very impressive, being just an old building. It's the setting and the grounds that makes this temple appealing.
Leaving the temple, we attempted to find the 'Path of Philosophy,' a tree-lined street that goes along a canal and which everyone recommends for a nice stroll. Again, our maps were not entirely useful, one showing it on the west side of a canal, another on the east, and none too clear on how far it was from the temple. After wandering around a while, we saw a map board by the side of the road, and it was very clear about where the street was.
The Path of Philosophy is called that not because any famous philosophers lived or walked here, but because someone decided that would be a good name for a peaceful tree-lined street that people might want to walk along and possibly contemplate philosophy at the same time. I tried asking Mark his opinion of the Aristotelian notion of substance, but we didn't get very far.
We did meet two old women who stopped us, gestured for us to close our eyes, and proceeded to bless us (or pray over us) for about a minute and a half. At least we think that's what they were doing.
At the southern end of the Path of Philosophy is the Eikan-do Temple. Like every other temple in Kyoto, it seems to be called by something other than its real name, which is Shoju-raigo-san Zenrin-ji Temple. This was the only time I felt that we had been misled by one of the sights. The admission was ¥300 each, but after you pay that and go in, you discover that to see the buildings and statuary (which are what the informational sign at the gate talks about), it is another ¥500. While it is possible that there was some small sign up at the gate saying this in Japanese, I don't think so, because I looked for it on the way out.
By now we were pretty much 'templed-out' anyway, so we contented ourselves with seeing the gardens and then decided to go back to the Kawaramachi area and wander around. On the way we stopped for lunch. There wasn't much in the way of restaurants (of any sort) between where we were and the river which forms the eastern boundary of Kawaramachi, so when we passed a noodle shop we decided to go in, even though there was no plastic food or menu. It was clear that it wasn't an expensive place, and we figured we could just order at random. Well, it turned out they had an English menu as well as a Japanese one anyway. Mark had soba in broth with a herring on top; I had cold soba noodles. (It was very hot outside-I would guess close to 30 degrees Centigrade.) This totaled ¥1400-quite reasonable.
After this we walked to Kawaramachi and went into a few stores. We dropped into Virgin Music where we looked at their selection of soundtrack CDs. They were all of Western (American and European, not cowboys and gunslingers) movies and ran about ¥2250 each. We had hoped to find more Japanese film music, but I guess Virgin is not the place to look.
Then we stopped at Maruzen Books. First we went through all the movie lobby cards they had out for their sidewalk sale, picking up lobby cards in Japanese for such films as Star Trek 2 and Gone With The Wind. Then we went up to their eighth floor, where they had even more, and found a Godzilla 1983 (known in the United States as Godzilla 1985 because it was released there two years later) and a Zatoichi, as well as a few more science fiction ones. Their seventh floor seems to be fashion (Burberrys, etc.)-a strange department to find in a bookstore.
The sixth floor is foreign-language books (primarily) and this is also where they were having their 'Star Trek Fair,' which consisted of an enormous selection of 'Star Trek'-related books: large-format photo books, boos about science in 'Star Trek,' and of course lots of 'Star Trek' novels. Given that these are all books imported from the United States and the prices here are about twice what they are at home, we didn't really browse through these. They also had an 'SF Fair,' which was a display of Tor science fiction books. I don't know if Tor helped sponsor this, or if it was Maruzen's idea.
We did look at the books about Japan, Japanese culture, and so on. There were quite a few I was interested in, but they were almost all published by Charles Tuttle, based in Rutland, Vermont, so I figured I could get them cheaper back home.
We were in a good area for dinner, but weren't hungry yet. We looked for a place to sit and write in our logs, but this seems to be something Kyoto (and probably most Japanese cities) doesn't have in abundance. We eventually found a few benches in an open area when several shopping arcades met, and sat for about an hour writing. (It occurred to me later that another possibility would have been the Japan Foundation.)
For dinner, we decided to try okonomiyaki, a Kyoto specialty which someone described as a vegetable pancake, with various ingredients such as seafood or egg, grilled and served with a sauce. One of the places recommended for this by the Tourist Information Center was 'Mister Young Men.' The menu was entirely in Japanese, but did have some pictures. I got what appeared to be 'French-style Okonomiyaki' (well, it came with a little paper French flag in it, and had asparagus on top), and Mark got something else, which did not have a flag in it, but did come with a small salad and a small Coke. Mine had tuna and octopus in it and corn kernels and a pink sauce that tasted like a sweet Thousand-Island dressing on top. I don't think the French would think it very French. Dinner came to ¥1680.
When we first got to Kyoto I said that my impression was that I preferred Tokyo. This hasn't changed. I must just be a big-city person, and while Kyoto is not exactly rural (it has a population of about 1,400,000) it's not as lively as Tokyo.
Many people said we were focused too much on big cities and should try to see more of the rural Japan, implying that was more like the 'real' Japan. But of Japan's 123,000,000 people, 75% live in urban areas, and 25% live in Japan's ten cities that have over 1,000,000 people each: Tokyo (12M), Yokohama (3M), Osaka (2.6M), Nagoya (2.2M), Sapporo (1.6M), Kobe (1.5M), Kyoto (1.4M), Fukuoka (1.2M), Hiroshima (1.1M), Kawasaki (1.0M). Another book notes that the Tokyo-Yokohama-Kawasaki corridor is virtually one city, and the world's largest, and that 40,000,000 people live within fifty kilometers of the Imperial Palace in Tokyo. All this seems to indicate that urban Japan is the real Japan these days. This reminds me of people who think the 'real America' is in some small town in Iowa. The 'real America' is New York, Los Angeles, and so on, or at least those are just as real as a small farming town.
October 26, 1996: What better way to end our stay in Kyoto than by going to the Blessing of the Eels?
(Why am I so sure that many people reading this will have an answer to that question?)
It was raining when we woke up, but by 9:30 when we went out it had stopped and was merely overcast. Still, we were happy that we had decided to forego walking through Arashiyama (Western Kyoto) or going to Toei Uzumasa Eiga-Mura (Toei Movieland). The former is described as a good place for a 'pleasant walk in natural surroundings' (but not, one suspects, on an ugly day) and the latter seems to be like the Universal Studios Tour, though perhaps with fewer rides, but in any case mostly outside and somewhat pricey (¥2000 each). We had coincidentally decided to do some things today that didn't require good weather.
We stopped in Lawson's for something for breakfast and discovered the buns were back (maybe they run out faster during the week than on the weekends). I had a pastry, while Mark had two steamed pork buns. We also got snack stuff: rice crackers, squid jerky, and some snack consisting of rice crackers, peanuts, and dried whole fish (which are about a centimeter long).
Mark also picked up another small souvenir: a chopstick rest shaped like a hot pepper.
We walked to the Kyoto National Museum, about fifteen minutes from the Seiki. It was open but amongst all the Japanese was English saying that the main hall was closed. This seemed to make seeing the museum a bad idea, so we sat on a ledge at the entrance and tried to formulate an alternate plan. Then a woman came out from the ticket office with a newsletter in English which explained, among other things, that the main hall was now used for special exhibits and the permanent collection was in the New Exhibition Hall. This solved our dilemma-we went in (¥400).
This museum is like the Tokyo National Museum, but on a smaller scale. There were a lot of labels in English (although these were much briefer than the corresponding Japanese labels). I notice that on the Japanese labels they often give hiragana translations above the kanji as a guide to pronunciation and to help with unfamiliar kanji. (This is similar to train station signs, which always show the hiragana as well as the kanji for the town.)
In the museum they have a sign saying that no pens are allowed. They suggest if you need to make notes, you should use pencils. I guess palmtops are okay, too.
The one piece I found most impressive was 'Yamaraja and His Attendants' (a grouping of five statues bigger than life-size). They may have been twice life-size; a later section said that twice life-size was the standard size for a Buddha statue, so maybe that applied here as well. (Obviously there are many that are larger than this and many smaller. But I guess the main one in a temple should meet this standard.) It was a bit disappointing, though, to discover that the metalwork exhibit, which rotates among the items in the collection, was yet more bronze mirrors rather than swords or armor.
One nice thing about museums is that they do have places to sit down.
We spent about two hours in the museum, then left and looked for lunch. We passed a Benihana restaurant, but it was not at all like the 'Benihana of Tokyo' restaurants that pass for Japanese back in the United States. We haven't seen anything like that here, and this Benihana was just another restaurant serving somewhat Westernized food (cutlet, spaghetti, and so on).
Instead we ate at the Curry Shop, where we had 'curry rice' (sort of like on our first day). Mark had cuttlefish in his; I ordered something like seemed to read 'chi-zu ry-zu,' but I wasn't sure what it was. It was, just as they said, curried cheese and rice. The cheese was something like shredded mozzarella. It may not sound like a very good combination, but it wasn't bad.
We had some problems finding Mishima-jinja Shrine, which is where the Unagi Hohjo-E is held. And what is the Unagi Hohjo-E, you ask? Why, the Blessing of the Eels, of course.
When I plan a trip, I try to put something original in, something we wouldn't see on a package tour. In Lithuania, for example, we went to the Devil Museum. I can't claim I planned this one ahead of time, but when I read about the Unagi Hohjo-E in the magazine Kansai Time Out, I knew it was for us. The only problem was that none of our maps, or tour books, listed the Mishima-jinja. I asked at the front desk at the Seiki and someone drew it on the map as being next to the Kyoto National Museum, very close by to us. Well, there is a shrine there but it is not Mishima-jinja but 'Toyo-something' (from the hiragana). They were able to direct us to Mishima-jinja, which we found after only two or three wrong turns.
We were (naturally) the first to arrive (at about 13:40 for a 14:00 ceremony). We felt a bit strange and out of place, but they welcomed us in and asked us to sit and have tea by the side of the shrine area, where benches had been set up. Another gaijin (Sonya) arrived about ten minutes later and we talked to her for a while; she has lived in Sapporo for four years and teaches English there.
About 14:00 some Japanese started showing up (and a few more gaijin-in fact the group was probably one-quarter gaijin). We were going to stay outside the shrine area, but they gestured us in to the benches with everyone else.
The ceremony (service) was led by a Master of Ceremonies with microphone (very traditional). There was the head priest in a gold robe and indigo pants, two assistants in purple robes and turquoise pants, and two women musicians whose costumes I don't remember (they were out of my line of sight most of the time). The pants have gaps on either side from the waistband down to the knees and are worn over white trousers, but the younger assistant was wearing striped undershorts under the white trousers which showed through and made it difficult to take him entirely seriously. They also wore black wooden shoes with rounded-up fronts (not pointed, but flat across, sort of like if you took a rectangle of wood and then folded up the front in a straight line, except they also have sides and a back). They were wearing the specially shaped black hats. The ones we saw at the Jidai Matsuri were plastic and I thought that was just for the festival, but apparently the real ones are plastic also, or at least look plastic. And they carried polished wooden paddles about forty centimeters long and eight centimeters wide. The clothing I am sure is worn out of tradition, but the paddles must have some meaning. Sometimes they carried them or held them out in front of them, almost as it they were reading from them; other times they stuck them into their waistbands.
Since taking notes during the ceremony would probably have been considered tacky, I will have to work from memory, and since it went on for about an hour, I'm sure I will forget something.
The beginning consisted of the assistants waving leafy branches decorated with zig-zag paper strips in front of the altar, over the offerings, and over the congregation (for lack of a better term-there were about thirty of us). Various prayers (I assume) were said, with the congregation standing for some and then sitting down again. Sonya said she couldn't really follow what was going on, because the Japanese used was somewhat archaic (like a modern Italian trying to follow a Latin mass?), but she did notice that the Master of Ceremonies did ask the congregation to rise or sit using the most respectful form of the verbs. This was clearly a situation where the proverb 'When in Rome, do as Romans do' applied: stand when and how everyone stands (head and upper body slightly bowed), sit when they sit, and hope you can figure out if there's something they're going to do that you shouldn't (like Catholics take Communion at Mass and non-Catholics don't).
Then the assistants opened the altar and with great ceremony moved the offerings into it. The last offering was a live eel in a plastic bag of water in an aquarium tank. There were then more prayers and readings, including the head priest reading from a folded paper with the ritual written on it (one assumes).
They then lit a candle(?) in the altar and after some more prayers took the eel out again, carried it over to the pond by the side of the shrine and released it into the water. They lit a paper torch from the candle at the altar and used it to start a fire in a receptacle by the pond. I couldn't see it too well, but it sent up quite a flame. People then were called up to the altar by the Master of Ceremonies. One of the assistants would give them a leafy branch, which they would present at a table in front of the altar, bowing several times to the assistant and towards the altar, and clapping twice after placing the branch down. After this, they would go over to the fire and put a special stick with a prayer written on it in the fire. (All of this part applies to only the Japanese.) Then there was a sermon or a speech from the head priest, who apparently mentioned something about the large number of gaijin attending (at least that's what Sonya heard, and the other speaker also mentioned 'Americans'). But Sonya thinks it was just that they were surprised. They certainly didn't seem offended, and when we left we were given the same gift bag that the Japanese got, which was a small white shopping bag containing a bento of nine small pastries with red bean paste and black sesame seeds, three packets of tea, and a temple booklet, sort of like an almanac, with events or something for each day, etc., except since it is all in Japanese we will probably have some difficulty figuring it out.
Oh, and the purpose of all this? Once a year (or perhaps twice-Sonya thinks they may have a similar festival in the spring) there is this service at this temple to thank the gods for the previous year's eel catch and to ask for a good one for the upcoming year.
(And if you think this strange, it was no more strange than the Blessing of the Animals at a church in New York each year.)
By now, it was almost 16:00 and had turned colder and windier (though it hadn't rained since we were out, and in fact the sun was even shining a bit), so we returned to the ryokan to warm up and have some hot tea. This ryokan has one nice feature for weather like this-heated toilet seats. Then again, since most Japanese homes are kept fairly chilly in the winter, and people rely on clothing or quilts more, it's not surprising that you find these.
We had thought about having a fancy dinner our last night in Japan, but didn't want to spend a lot of time searching someplace out, so we had dinner at a Chinese restaurant down the street.
October 27, 1996: Be it ever so humble, there's no place like home.
The weather was sunny today, and not as windy as yesterday; one thermometer said 11 degrees Centigrade. We finished packing-it's always the last few odds and ends that are the problem. Everything pretty much fit into our two suitcases and one shoulder bag, though a few items were in a separate bag for carrying around Osaka.
We went to the bus stop to catch the 207 bus to the Hankyu- Kawaramachi Station for the train to Osaka. One nice thing about the paying-in-advance system they have for rooms is that you can just leave when you're ready without having to check out.
We discovered that at this hour the 207 bus seems to run only once an hour; luckily we arrived fifteen minutes before it came by. The train station ticket machine was easy to figure out-there was a map in romanji. It was ¥380 each to Osaka, which is pretty cheap for that long a ride. I'm sure Japan Railways would have been more expensive, even if we took something other than the Shinkansen.
In Osaka, we were looking for coin lockers, but first took the connecting overpass from the Hankyu Umeda Station to the JR Osaka Station, since we would be leaving from there. The coin lockers were easy to find, and we were trying to fit our three bags into the ¥400 lockers when we saw some much larger ¥500 ones. This made it a lot easier. The coin lockers here have a sports scene covering them so that from a distance they look like a wall with a mural rather than coin lockers.
We decided to buy our tickets for the train to the airport now, and discovered that we needed to allow more time than we had thought. Someone had told us it takes twenty minutes, but from here it takes about an hour on the limited express. This meant we had about five hours in Osaka.
Unencumbered, we then spent a fair amount of time trying to find the Osaka Tourist Information Office. Even with the Lonely Planet guide saying which exit to go to, we had problems finding it; it is a very small and not well-marked office. We bought a map and city guide here, since the books say not to try going anywhere without a subway and bus map.
Looking at the map, however, we decided there was nothing worth going to in the time we had. Osaka-jo Castle would have been our first choice, but it was being renovated and was supposedly wrapped up so you couldn't even see the outside. Panasonic Square was moderately interesting, but probably a lot like the Sony showrooms in Tokyo. The Science Museum might have been a contender, but we suspected a lack of English would be a problem. In the end we decided just to wander around the central area near the station, which has an enormous underground shopping complex. (The map/guide claimed it is the largest in the world.)
Most of what seemed to be open at 10:00 on a Sunday morning was pachinko parlors, video game arcades, and other amusement-oriented establishments. There were some other businesses open as well (drugstores, bookstores, restaurants, and so on), but there were also a lot of shuttered shops. Maybe what I said about Sunday being just like any other day is true only in Tokyo, or only in parts of Tokyo.
We walked around above ground a bit as well, passing a Toei Movie Palace, where we picked up flyers for Escape from L.A. There were stores and restaurants open here within a block of the main street, but everything further away seemed closed. We stopped at one for lunch and we both had unagi donburi (eel on rice), having been inspired by yesterday's ceremony, I suppose. We walked as far as the river, then walked along the river and back on a different street. We also walked some more through the underground area, where we stumbled across, of all things, the Sherlock Holmes Pub, done up like a British pub with some additional Sherlock Holmes decor and serving such delicacies as bangers and mash. There may not be any Holmes manga (at least that I could find), but they do know about Sherlock Holmes.
There was also an area that had a wall which had musical instruments sort of sculpted into the wall, and buttons on them so you could play them. For example, there was a button on each of a range of about a dozen keys on the piano, and as you pressed each one, the appropriate note was played.
Eventually it was time to leave and we retrieved our luggage, packing our day stuff into my suitcase to minimize the number of bags we would be carrying. (At the last minute, we bought a Daruma doll, which was in a box about twenty centimeters on a side which didn't fit in anything, so we had to carry that separately.)
We managed to find the track for the train, though I was starting to get nervous when fifteen minutes before the train we couldn't even figure out where the tracks were. The trains on this track run every few minutes, so we almost got on the wrong one, but the right one was well-labeled as going to the airport. The ride took almost an hour and was unremarkable except for going over the world's longest floating double causeway or some such.
Kansai Airport is a new airport, having opened just about two years ago. It is very futuristic looking, with lots of modern touches, like luggage carts designed to be used on escalators, and automatic machines for checking boarding passes. There is also a higher departure tax than for Narita, unless Narita's has been raised recently: ¥2600 per person (versus ¥2000 for Narita). Luckily we had extra yen with us, though you can also pay by credit card. To pay by cash, you put your cash in a machine and it gives you a card that is read by a machine at the entrance to the departure area. Then you go through the security check and an immigration check. Most countries, if I recall correctly, don't make you go through any special check to leave the country, but Japan does. (On the other hand, most countries other than the United States don't ask you to fill out a customs declaration when you enter.) When you arrive in Japan you fill in a two-part card; they keep one part and put the other in your passport. When you leave, they take that part back. I guess they want to make sure no one is staying illegally, but how would they be able to find you if they decided you were? At the gate, you put your boarding pass in a machine, and it returns the stub to you and on a display screen tells you by name that you can board.
Before boarding, we changed our excess yen back into dollars. We had more excess than usual, due to my cautious estimates, but it's just as well, because we would not be able to change money easily the last two days (Saturday and Sunday) and also because we needed a big chunk for the departure tax (actually, the 'Passenger Facilities Service Charge'). They said they were going to board our flight by row numbers, which seemed to mean the first class row numbers first, then all the economy class at once.
The flight was, as usual, uncomfortable. I thought I would enjoy it, being a chance to sit in one place and not have to walk anywhere, but I had forgotten how cramped the seats are, and how they are constructed so as to give you a crick in your neck if you're (un)lucky enough to fall asleep.
There was a family next to us on the plane who was returning to the United States after six years at the base on Okinawa. The children were seven, nine, and twelve. The mother was worried about what the United States would be like after being away so long, especially for them. She said the youngest is very friendly, always saying 'Hi' to people, and she was trying to explain that he couldn't do that in the United States. I suspect it will be quite a culture shock, though if they live on base it won't be quite as drastic.
We cleared immigration and customs in Los Angeles very quickly-not having to wait for checked luggage helps.
Andre Codrescu is an author who was born in Romania, but came to the United States and became an American citizen. He went back to visit Romania, which was still very repressive and a place he would not want to live in. What he liked best about the trip was that when he returned to the United States, the immigration officer looked at his (United States) passport, stamped it, and said, 'Welcome home.'
We killed a couple of hours at the Los Angeles airport, then boarded our last flight. This was a little bit roomier (each seat was eighteen inches wide instead of seventeen) but still not what one would term spacious.
There was one final gotcha-our flight was not listed on the arrivals board (and had arrived early to boot). So when Jo arrived, she didn't see it listed and thought she either had the number wrong or it was in a different terminal. Luckily, as she was heading for the office to ask, she saw us.
Would I recommend Japan as a travel destination? Yes, with a couple of provisos. First, while it's not terribly expensive, it's not terribly cheap either. It's probably on a par with Britain or Scandinavia. If you're looking for a cheap vacation, almost anyplace else in Asia will be cheaper. Second, I wouldn't recommend it as a first travel destination. It's difficult enough not knowing the language and dealing with people who don't know English-you should at least have a working knowledge of changing money, buying train tickets, finding hotels, etc., before trying to do it without a common language.
Given that, my Ten Rules for Affordable Travel to Japan are:
When to go: The best time seems to be September or October. June, July, and August (especially) are very busy times and hard to get cheap airfares for. May is cherry-blossom time and probably just as bad. December is also busy.
Guide books: The Lonely Planet has the best information on hotels and getting around. Call the Japan National Tourist Organization (in New York) and get their brochures, including maps of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Japan. Stop in their offices in Tokyo and/or Kyoto for lots of useful pamphlets and information.
Airfare: Shop around. The 'bucket shops' (ticket consolidators who place ads in the back of your newspaper's Sunday travel section are a good place to start. I've heard of fares under US$500 from the West Coast; we paid US$956 from Newark.
Long-distance ground travel: Rail is the way to go, but it's expensive. Get a JapanRail Pass, but maximize its use by compacting all your long-distance travel. If you are doing a Tokyo-Hiroshima-Kyoto loop in some form within a seven-day period, the one-week pass is cheaper. If you are going to Tokyo and Kyoto, being able to fly into one and home from the other will save you a couple of hundred dollars in ground costs getting back. (Tokyo uses Narita Airport; Kyoto uses Osaka's Kansai Airport.)
Local ground travel: Learn the subways and buses; taxis are expensive and the cities are too spread-out to walk. The Tokyo subway system is very simple, and color-coded (for those rare stations where you can't find a map labeled in romanji).
Hotels: You can get reasonable double rooms for around US$75/night. Singles are cheaper, or you can try youth hostels for even less if you don't mind all the rules. Reserve ahead; given that no one seems to require a deposit, it's probably safer to line up your rooms before locking in your plane ticket. (Note: all the cheaper places seem to be Japanese-style beds-futons on the floor-though with Western toilets. If you can't sleep on the floor, it will cost you.))
Eating: Your best bets are the restaurants with plastic food in the window with prices on it. Learn the Japanese characters for the numbers; a lot of places show prices that way. Cheap dishes include noodle soups, pork cutlets, some Western dishes, and even sushi. Large department stores often have food departments where you can buy take-out sushi by the piece. We averaged about US$35/day each for food, including all snacks, beverages (see below), etc.
Drinking: Beverages such as sodas and coffee cost about three times as much in a restaurant as from the ubiquitous street vending machines (US$3 versus US$1). To save money, stick to the machines. Restaurants serve water or small cups of tea, or both, free with meals. 'Coffee shops' are even more expensive than restaurants (US$5 a cup).
What to bring: Not much-you'll be carrying your own luggage through big train stations and such. Bring comfortable shoes. You will be on your feet a lot. In the fight between 'comfortable' and 'easy to take off at the door,' comfortable should win. A compass is useful, and not something everyone thinks to bring.
Money: Bring travellers cheques. There are ATMs, but they are not usually on networks like Plus or Cirrus (the one at Narita Airport is), and most don't take North American bank cards. Cash advances against credit cards can cost a bundle in finance charges unless you pay the money in first to create a credit balance. (This does not apply to debit cards.) Very few (cheap) places take credit cards (or debit cards).
And our cost break-down: Airfare US$1959
Ground Transportation 786
Hotels 1361
Meals 567
Film/Developing 219
Miscellaneous 527
Total US$5409
'Nippon, the floating kingdom.
There was a time when foreigners were not welcome here
but that was long ago-a hundred and twenty years.
Welcome to Japan.'
-the end of Stephen Sondheim's Pacific Overtures (1973)
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| Copyright © - "Evelyn C. Leeper" |
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