| Submitted by: Philip Hazel, United Kingdom |
| Submission Date: 04 February 2005 |
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I ate in a third good restaurant at Blouberg in 1996, the Blue Peter Hotel. Not as close to the sea as 'On the Rocks', but still enjoying the spectacular view over the bay.
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STELLENBOSCH & FRANSCHHOEK
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Visit Stellenbosch (old wine & University town, many Cape Dutch buildings, about 3/4 hour drive from Cape Town) and other nearby places such as Franschoek (settled by French Hugenots). Good restaurant 'Le Petite Ferme' on hillside above Franschoek (visited 1991); much cheaper than city restaurants. The mountain pass between Franschhoek and Villersdorp passes through delightful scenery
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In 1995 I stayed in Blue Gum Cottage on the Diemersfontein estate just outside Wellington (details from tourist information) for R65 per person per night. This is a fully serviced cottage with all facilities and a lovely view over the valley. An evening walk through the vineyards at sunset was an added bonus. The 'big house' on the estate is a guest house when the owners are not in residence; it costs R180 per person per night.
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VERGELEGEN (contributed notes)
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Located 40 Km east of Cape Town on Lourensford Road, Somerset West, is the Cape's most beautiful historic estate: Vergelegen ('situated far away'). Established in 1700, the grounds boast majestic camphor trees nearly 300 years old - now designated as national monuments. Vergelegen estate was purchased in 1987 by Anglo American Farms (Pty) Ltd. After careful soil evaluation of this 3000 hectare property, it was divided into three main areas: pasture for dairy herds, vineyards on the slopes and hillsides, and orchards in the rich alluvial valley floor.
In March 1992 a new high-tech winery, designed in an octagonal shape to complement the homestead garden, was opened. From its roof garden, with a 360 degree view, one can see False Bay, Table Mountain, Cape Town, and the Helderberg and Hottentots Holland mountains.
The heritage area surrounding the main homestead is now flawlessly restored to the early 20th century charm as renovated by Sir Lionel and Lady Florence Phillips, who owned the property from 1917 to 1941. In November 1992 Vergelegen was opened to the public for the first time.
Take a break from city heat and traffic - enjoy the beauty of this fine estate, sample Vergelegan wines, and move back in time as you walk through the historical museum display. A modest entry fee (R6 in 1996) includes a wine tasting and cellars tour, access to the homestead, gardens, and grounds. Facilities for the disabled are provided. Reservations for lunch and the cellars tour are recommended.
Take highway N2 to Somerset West exit 43. Open 9:30-4:00 daily. Tel. (024)8471334, FAX (024)8471608. Tell them Loretta sent you. [Notes (slightly edited) courtesy of Loretta Dunbar former manager of visitor centre/gift shop/museum.]
I visited Vergelegen in 1996 and can confirm all the above. In addition to the restaurant, which serves full meals, light lunches are now also available from a serve-yourself outlet in the rose garden. If the day is hot, there is a nice beach at The Strand, just a kilometre or two away from Somerset West, where you can cool off after your visit.
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Further afield are places like Caledon, with a wild flower garden and hot springs at the Overberger Hotel (R5 to 'take the waters' in 1996) and Hermanus, which is on the coast. The southernmost point of Africa, Cape Agulhas, is rather boring and not worth a visit unless you have time to spare. There is a development of holiday homes around it. Further East is the Breede River mouth which is more interesting. There is a good hotel in Witsand there (the Breede River Lodge) and there are also holiday cottages for hire (Barry's Chalets).
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EAST COAST & GARDEN ROUTE
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The East coast is very pretty; the route from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth is called 'The Garden Route' (N2), though the best bit lies between George and Port Elizabeth.
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The town of Swellendam (beside the N2) is worth a stop. It is one of the oldest towns and has several interesting buildings, including the Drostdy Museum which is in an old Cape Dutch homestead. Some of the old buildings have been converted into self-catering accommodation at very reasonable prices. For example, Kadie Cottage (in a converted old stable, sleeping 4) could be rented for R65 per person per night in 1995 (breakfast R12 extra). There is also a caravan and chalet park run by the municipality with about a dozen chalets built in Cape Dutch style with thatched roofs, and all set in amongst oak trees (around R115 for a chalet sleeping 4). On the main street, Mattsens restaurant gave us good food and service in 1995.
Between Swellendam and the mountain lies the Marloth nature reserve, which has trails that vary in length from 1 hour to 5 days! The ravines at the foot of the mountain contain the remains of indigenous forests, with yellowwood and other native species, including some fascinating tree ferns. You are required to sign in and out when you arrive, but [1995] we were not charged any fee for day walks.
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Oudtshoorn is situated to the north of the N2, and can be reached either by driving north via the Robinson or Outeniqua passes from the N2 (both beautiful), or by driving west from Montagu via Barrydale, Ladismith and Calitzdorp. If you have time, instead of driving from Calitzdorp direct to Oudtshoorn, take a dirt road to the left just after Calitzdorp that takes you across to the road north out of Oudtshoorn, because this goes through some beautiful country with red rock formations including some rock arches. It then passes through farming lands below the mountains.
Oudtshoorn is the centre of the ostrich farming industry, and in the 19th century a lot of money was made, until the industry collapsed. Look out for a number of grandiose homes ('ostrich palaces') in the town. Recently, ostriches have come back into fashion, and the area is prospering. Tourism is being encouraged. A number of ostrich farms are geared up for visitors, and there are also crocodile and angora rabbit farms in the vicinity.
30 Km north of Oudtshoorn are the Cango Caves, which are well worth a visit. Carrying on north past the caves, the road goes over the Swartberg Pass, which is one of the most spectacular mountain passes in the Western Cape, but note that it is a dirt road.
In 1995 I stayed at Oue Werf, a guest house on a farm at Schoemanshoek, 15 Km north of Oudtshoorn, where the original farm house (thatched roof, reed ceilings, yellowwood floors) has been converted into two cottages. Dinner & breakfast are available. The cost was R75 per person for B&B, and R25 pp for dinner. The surrounding countryside is very pretty, especially if there has been recent rain.
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WEST COAST, NAMAQUALAND & CEDARBERG MOUNTAINS
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The west coast is dry and arid, but if you are there just after it has rained, go up there to look at the carpets of wild flowers on the way to Namaqualand. Also up the west coast N7 main road (around 250 Km) is the Cedarberg, a mountain range with good walking (though you need to arrange it). The highest mountains are around 1400 metres. Several of the farmers in the area have cottages and campsites on their land. We stayed at Kromrivier in 1993 in a cottage that slept 7 for R90 per night. Also stayed there in 1994, in one of the smaller cottages.
You will have to drive on dirt roads quite a bit to get into the Cedarberg, but it is worth it. Much of it is forestry land for which you need to get permits to enter, but these are freely available from the forestry offices or the farmers themselves. The number of simultaneous hiking parties is controlled in some areas. Good guides & maps for this area are available. One of the most spectacular things to visit is the Wolfberg Cracks, enormous fissures at the top of a mountain through which you can walk. To get up to them you must follow a path that climbs 450 metres in 1 kilometre. On a hot day, take plenty of liquid with you. There are also some bushmen caves in the Cedarberg, which can be reached in a few minutes walking. There are still a few cave paintings left to see, but they are small and indistinct. The rock formations are impressive, though.
The farm Dwarsrivier, from which you can get walking permits for the Wolfberg, also sells fruit and its own wine at very reasonable prices. A whole box of grapes cost R8 in 1995, and very nice wine was available from R7-R11 per bottle.
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| As well as the main roads up the east and west coasts from Cape Town, there is the Great North Road (number N1) which goes sort of centrally up the country. About 30 miles from Cape Town it passes through Paarl (grape and other fruit growing country) and then over the spectacular du Toit's Kloof Pass. There is a tunnel nowadays as well; avoid it if you want to see the view! It doesn't take much longer. |
| Copyright © - "Philip Hazel" |
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