| Submitted by: Gopal VenkatUnited States |
| Submission Date: 04 February 2005 |
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African Safari - Kenya & Tanzania, September 1998
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Boarded the American Airlines flight to London en route to Nairobi for the Start of my African Safari. From London I was to take Gulf Air to Nairobi with a Stop-over/flight change in Muscat, Oman. I was taking a Cheap Flight !! The Airfare was around $1200. The Safari was an all Camping Safari (both in Kenya and Tanzania). I was trying to do it on the CHEAP. The argument being that I was going to Africa to see wild animals, not to sleep on comfortable beds or enjoy continental breakfasts !!
This was 3 weeks after the Bombing of the US Embassies in Kenya and Tanzania. If the bombers expected me to be deterred by these acts, they were wrong. (It also helps that I do NOT hold a US Passport)
But for the layover in Muscat (3 hours from 11 PM till 2 AM), everything was OK. Landed at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport on September 5 around 7 AM. I was to be met at the Airport by a representative from my Safari Company (Best Camping Tours & Safaris http://www.kenyaweb.com/bestcampingtours/) As is usually the case during these trips, no one showed up. Being a former British Colony, English is Spoken widely in Kenya. After Changing $100 (Obtained around 5500 Kenyan Shillings), I took a taxi to the Hotel. Though Taxis have metres, the rate is usually negotiated before the commencement of the trip. In this case, I wound up with a Price Tag of 1000 Shillings (US $18) which wasn't bad. The Journey from the Airport to the Hotel (680 Hotel, Phone : 254-2-332680) took around 30 Minutes. Traffic is Chaotic.
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The Hotel folks had no reservation under my name (wasn't surprised). When I told them I was joining a Best Camping Tour, I was given a room without further ado. They were Planning to Call Best Camping and inquire about me being on any of their tours. After the long Journey from New York, I badly needed a Shower. After checking into my room, I received a Call from the Best Camping folks, informing me that there was a Law & Order Problem in one of the Parks I was to Visit (Samburu) and that my Trip to Amboseli was being Preponed to TODAY !! (As per the Itinerary, I was to leave for Amboseli Tomorrow, September 6, 1998) They said that there would be a Convoy of Vehicles leaving for Samburu on Tuesday, September 8 and I was to go in one of those Vehicles. (Safety in Numbers) They said I would be picked up from the Hotel in about an Hour. After Taking a Shower, I packed my essentials (for the Amboseli Visit) in to a Small Bag and got ready. (Suitcases are not Permitted on any of these Safari Trips. Anticipating this, I had carried a soft case inside my Suitcase. The reason for the Larger Suitcase was to accommodate any Purchases I might make during this Trip) Since I was in a Hurry to get ready, I was unable to Check the flow of water in the Toilet Bowl !! (being in the Southern Hemisphere, it should be anti-clockwise)
The folks arrived around 9 AM and picked me up at the Hotel and took me to the Best Camping Offices. The Owner/manager, Shiraz Nanji told me that someone was indeed waiting for me at the Airport and that he was delayed a bit !! (not an unusual excuse) Anyway, he agreed to reimburse me for the Airfare from the Airport. After explaining the Problem to me (at Samburu) in detail he told me that the Wire Transfer I had sent was a bit short (due to exchange rate fluctuations) and that I had to pay the equivalent of $20 to cover the same. We agreed to Square it off with the Taxi Fare that was owed to me. I also Paid him for the 3 Nights I would be Staying at the 680 Hotel. The rate (negotiated in Bulk by these Touring Companies) was $45. A word of Advice : I thought I was being Smart when I decided to Book it directly with the Tour Company in Nairobi. It wasn't to be. Folks in North America can Book any Tours on Best Camping (and a Host of Other Tour Operators) through Safari Centre, (http://www.safaricenter.com/) or (800) 223-6046 based in California. I did book my Tanzania leg of the Safari through Safari Center. Marj Abbott of SafariCentre was quite helpful.
One can leave Bags (that are not required during the course of the Trip) at the Best Camping Offices. These are Kept in a Luggage room. I did leave my Suitcase there. I was to be Joined in the Trip to Amboseli by a Dutch Couple and a Danish Lady. After Introducing Ourselves, We were Introduced to our Driver/Guide Peter. All the touring Companies I observed during my 3 Week Safari, have a Driver who is usually an expert in Tracking Animals, in explaining their Habits and in helping us Identify the Animals. (Before the Safari, I had little knowledge about a Kudu or a Dik-Dik !!)
Tap water is not recommended for Drinking for the Soft souls who go to Africa from Western Countries. Bottled water is available and one should Stock up on the same in Nairobi before heading to any of the Game Parks. A 3 Litre Bottle is around 200 Shillings. We left for Amboseli around 10 AM. After leaving Nairobi and its environs we headed towards the town of Namanga located on the Border with Tanzania. It took a while for reality to set in. (that I was actually in Africa and heading to a Game Park. It's had always been a dream and now it was a reality)
Midway through the Trip to Namanga, we stopped to have our Picnic Lunch. Being a Vegetarian, I got an Apple, a bottle of Juice and two sandwiches with cheese. Since the other Option was to Starve, I ate whatever was given. As is always the case with these Organized tours, the Bus/Minivan/Truck usually stops where the tourists can be easily lured into buying stuff. This was no exception. The moment we Completed Lunch, a couple of folks pleaded with us to visit their 'HANDICRAFT' Shop. 'Don't Buy. Just Look. No Problem' was their Mantra. (Hakuna Matata)
Since most of these People have evolved from Various Tribes, one cannot communicate with a member of another Tribe using these Dialects. Hence the need for a Common Language. Swahili is the Language that Bonds the whole of Kenya / Tanzania / Africa. For those not familiar with the Movie 'Lion King', Hakuna Matata means 'No Problems or No Worries. It is used Frequently by almost everyone here.
I digress. I did see a beautiful Masai Face Mask. The Price was Quoted at 5000 Shillings ($90)
The Look of disbelief on my face, prompted the Sales Person to lower it to 4000. After a long Bargaining Session, I finally got the Mask for 1100 Shillings ($20). Bargaining is Mandatory in Kenya & Tanzania. Always Start with 15% of the Quoted Price. If you can obtain the Object of your Desire by paying not more than 25% of the Original Quoted Price, you have done all right.
(Not Great, just all right)
Most of these folks will also agree to Barter deals. One must Carry 2 Dozen Ball Point Pens and a Dozen T-Shirts. They can help you acquire quite a few Items on your Souvenir List. I could have obtained the Mask for a Couple of Pens or even a Single T-Shirt. If you are Carrying T-Shirts, carry some with something Inscribed on it. Anything Americana, is a Godsend down there. (Guess it gives the local who acquires it, quite a bit of Bragging Rights) I guess they are no different from most tourists who Visit Africa (who would give the shirts on their backs to get a piece of handiwork that was crafted in an African backyard !!). The Same folks who Upon reaching their home in Europe / Asia or America would weave Tales (fanciful in most cases) about how they came upon a particular Souvenir. Works both ways.
After the Lunch we continued on to Namanga. Upon reaching Namanga, the driver took off around town on foot to acquire Supplies for the 2 Days at Amboseli. Though Best Camping has a Cook Stationed Permanently at Amboseli, supplies must be taken along with every group that visits the park. The driver went around acquiring bread and Vegetables. The Coupe-de-grace was a Pair of Chickens (alive and Kicking) that were to accompany us on the Journey before they graced the Palates of my Travelling Companions !! After an hour's stop at Namanga we left for Amboseli. The road is a Dirt Track. We simply leave Civilization (and the comforts that come with it) behind. It is a refreshing experience. Though tourism is a Principal Source of Foreign exchange for Kenya & Tanzania, they do not see the point of developing a host of facilities to encourage tourism. This is to Protect the animals from the Hordes that might come if there were good roads into these Parks. In other words they do not want to Create an Orlando, Florida or Cancun, Mexico with their Crowds and attendant Problems. I couldn't agree more.
Though my head agreed with their viewpoint, my Butt did NOT. I was sitting above one of the rear Wheels and the drive to the Park was quite a bumpy ride. We did see quite a few small mammals and Birds along the way. Peter (the Driver) was quite good in telling us which is which.
We reached Amboseli 2 hours after leaving Namanga. It was around 4:30 PM. Peter went in to get a Pass for the Vehicle and tickets for us. (All these are Included in the Tour Price). He was away for 20-30 Minutes. During this time frame, we were subjected to the sales pitches of half a dozen folks and I wound up buying another Mask (this time is was a Bigger Mask for 1000 Shillings). I guess I'm getting good at Bargaining !! We Popped Open the Roof of the Mini-Van before we entered the Park. This gives the Tourists an uninterrupted view of the Wildlife and the Scenery.
The Travel along these Dirt Track generates excessive dust. This might affect Sensitive Electronic equipment like Cameras / Camcorders etc. One must always keep these equipment in a Dust-Proof bag when they are not being Used.
We were to have a Game drive this evening. It turned out that this was to be the drive from the Entrance (to the Park) to our Camp Site that was located at another far corner !! There are some detours that can be taken during this drive to observe the animals up close. We had a Great View of Kilimanjaro. There were no Clouds obscuring the peak. I managed to get quite a few Shots of Kili with animals in the foreground. We saw Elephants, Wildebeest, Zebras, Giraffe, Gazelle and Buffalo. Now I felt that I WAS in AFRICA on a SAFARI. I felt that having 2 Camera Bodies would have helped without having to switch lenses from time to time and changing rolls. Then again, with the Incredible amount of Dust, I would not have been able to take proper care of both the bodies and their lenses. Even though Peter switched the Ignition whenever we were quite close to the animals, the van still shook quite a bit when any one of us moved. One must steady oneself almost still before taking a picture. No point in taking a blurred Image back home after spending a couple of thousand dollars. High Speed film (400 ASA or more) would undoubtedly help. But if you plan on any enlargements of your pictures (say to a 20 x 30 Poster), stick with a film speed of 100 ASA or lower.
We observed a Spectacular Sunset. I shot a couple of pictures with a herd of wildebeest in the foreground against the setting Sun. This was truly the African sunset that I had seen on National Geographic Magazine and Videos. We reached Camp a little after 7 PM. We were shown to our tents. These are Permanent Tents that can sleep 2 People. They have mattresses and sheets inside these tents. |
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| Copyright © - "Gopal Venkat" |
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