| Submitted by: Gopal VenkatUnited States |
| Submission Date: 04 February 2005 |
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Even with Shutter Speeds of 30, I did not get any Blurry Pictures.
Apart from these Occasional good things, the Samburu trip wasn't great. I don't think People should travel all the way here just to spot 2 or 3 Reticulated giraffes or Geremuks. Maybe Aberdare would be a better Option, since animals come to the salt lick (where the lodge is situated) at dusk and throughout the night. Animal watching (from the Comfort of your Lodge) starts in Aberdare at Dusk and continues all Night. (Of Course, one must Stay at the ARK to experience this)
A word of advice. Most Campers on Safari (with the exception of yours truly and the French Duo) wear the Mega Boots thinking that they are going to do some Mega trekking in the Parks. Think Again. These Boots are quite heavy and quite unnecessary as one is not allowed to step outside the safari an during a Game drive. A sensible Option would be to wear Simple (and light) walking shoes or Sandals which would be quite comfortable in the Hot weather. If possible, bring in a lot of wet tissue / wipes. These are quite handy to get the grime/dust off one's face. (especially after a game drive)
For the first time, we had a full Vegetarian dinner. Rice with some Vegetable Curry. I managed a quite filling dinner. Since the long drop aren't great, IF one can control one's metabolism to not produce any waste (digest everything) one wouldn't have to visit these.
We leave early tomorrow for Lake Nakuru.
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Left Samburu around 7 AM. Reached Isiolo around 8 AM. The drive from Samburu to Isiolo did not look too bad this time around. Maybe I had begun to expect the worst and hence was not affected !! After a brief refueling stop we headed towards Lake Nakuru Passing the Equator again at Nanyuki. After Naro Moru, we left the Good Paved road and took a dirt track for around 30 minutes till we joined the B-5 highway. This is a Shortcut routinely employed by Tour Drivers. The B-5 is a Good road from Nairobi to Nakuru. We were to take this road to Nyahururu to see Thomson's Falls before Proceeding to Nakuru. We were now driving through the Rift Valley and the Scenery was Spectacular. (the best thus far, in Kenya) We reached Thomson's Falls around 11 AM. The Falls looked good. Scores of Hawkers make the approach to the falls nearly impossible. After Spending 20 Minutes there we proceeded towards Nakuru (50 Kilometres away) We reached Nakuru around 12:30 PM. We were taken to a restaurant owned and operated by folks originating from the Indian Sub-continent. Being a Vegan, I easily obtained some good food. It was a Pleasant Surprise. Wolfed down everything as quickly as possible. After Lunch we parted Company with one of the Dutch Couples (who were headed back to Nairobi) and drove to a local Bank since some of my camp-mates needed local currency. I went to a nearby Department Store and got some cookies. Loitered around some garment shops waiting for my camp-mates to finish their transactions. Saw some good shirts, but was disappointed to find that they were made in Indonesia.
Drove to the Stem Hotel to drop-off our Bags and headed to Lake Nakuru National Park for a Game Drive. Minutes after entering the Park, one of my Camp-mates (Frank) who was viewing through the open roof spotted a lion on a fallen tree trunk. John, the driver, pulled our van as close as possible and the only sounds heard for the next couple of minutes was the clicking of Camera Shutters. If Frank had not been viewing from the roof hatch, we would have missed a great (and I might add, a RARE) sight. Moments later a second lion with Blood stains on his face joined the first. Took around 10 Pictures. They had apparently killed some animal and had just finished their dinner. We drove around for a little while in the nearby area to see if we could spot any other lions feeding on the Actual Kill. We couldn't spot any. Drove around Lake Nakuru and up to the Baboon Cliffs. We hardly saw around 50 flamingoes. The reason is blamed on El Nino. Since Flamingoes feed on Algae on Shallow waters, the water level in Lake Nakuru (which had risen due to excessive rains) was not conducive to them. They had (I later learned) moved to Lake Baringo (further North). The Million Flamingoes that I had expected to see here in Nakuru was not to be. And I did not have the time in my Schedule to Visit Lake Baringo to observe the same.
As we continued around the lake, we spotted a pair of White Rhinos. Soon there were 5 Vans/Trucks of tourists milling around the pair and snapping away with their Cameras. Needless, to say, the Rhinos became quite testy. The Younger of the pair made a mock charge at one of the vans. That was enough for all the vans to get the message. It rained lightly as we drove around the park. On nearing the entrance / exit of the park, one of the other Camp-mates (who happened to be Frank's Wife Mieke) spotted a leopard on a tree. All she saw was a tail hanging from a branch and she yelled out to John. John Immediately Positioned the Van in a way advantageous to us Photographers. Soon enough there were 5 truck load of tourists milling around the leopard.
Since it was getting quite dark, I used my Tripod. These Pictures are among the Best I have taken during this Safari in Africa. At last, I had seen the Big 5 (including 3 on the same drive). As the saying goes, What a Difference a Day Makes !! The Failure at Samburu and the Success here.
One of the Frenchmen's Camera stopped working midway through the drive at lake Nakuru. He was quite upset at the whole thing. Anyone would be especially if things stopped working midway through the once-in-a-lifetime safari. (fortunately, he was able to fix the problem with a screw driver later that night. But he missed the Leopard at Nakuru)
Got back to the Hotel around 6:30 PM. Had a long and good Shower (my first in 3 Days) to wash the grime off and headed for dinner at the restaurant in the Hotel. I was served with a Special Indian Vegetarian Dinner. I soon became the envy of my Camp-mates due to the special food, I was getting. The driver had told the folks at the hotel that I am a Vegetarian. Good Food and a Good Game Drive.
We leave for Masai-Mara Tomorrow.
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After Breakfast we left Nakuru around 8:30 AM and headed to Masai Mara. We were to go to a Place (an hour's drive from Nairobi) and wait for a Supply truck to deliver Food / Park Entrance Tickets for our Group. During this drive we passed through lake Elementia and Hell's Gate National Park. No Flamingoes in Elementia either !!
We reached the place (Name, not Noted) around 11 AM and milled about the place in a Souvenir Shop (where else ?) for awhile. Although I was interested in some souvenirs, since me and the owner of the shop could not agree on a Price, I did not Buy any. The Supply Truck arrived a little later and we soon found out that 3 more people were to Travel with the Mara with us. The 5 of us (and John, the Driver) were none to happy about this. In a 9-Seater Minivan when you have 8 people Jockeying for the sun-roof viewing area, it can get quite nasty. One was an American and the others were a German Couple. I just hoped it would NOT be a bad experience.
We Packed up and drove towards the Mara. I slept most of the way. We stopped at Narok which happens to be the last Place for Supplies before Proceeding to the Masai Mara. After obtaining some Kerosene (for the Lanterns at the Camp), we started towards the Mara. We had a Picnic Lunch on the way and reached the Sekanani Gate a Couple of Hours after leaving NAROK. On the way to the Campsite (located just outside the TALEK Gate) we spotted a Group of Lions. In our mad scramble to get some photos, we realized that we could hardly stand straight (inside the van) as every inch of space was Occupied by People or the Supplies we were carrying for 3 Days. We told John to take us to the Campsite First (to dump all the Stuff) before viewing any game. Though not fully in concurrence with our view, John complied with our request.
We Proceeded to the Campsite here I was able to get a tent for Myself (again !!). We left for the game drive around 4:30 PM. Spotted some (Masai) Giraffe and took some photos. Then we came across a Cheetah. We were the first on the Scene. By the time we finished our Picture taking, there was a swarm of vehicles around the Creature. Leopard, Cheetah, Lion, Rhino, Elephant, Zebra, Giraffe, Hippo and Buffalo. Have seen the BIG NINE (as per the Passport/FootPrint Guide !!). The Mara Landscape was awesome. I took some moment to savor the atmosphere. The endless rolling plains teeming with wildlife. (as read/seen in National Geographic Magazines/Videos). We saw more Lions and some Eland as well. I almost took half a roll of Lion Shots. The Sunset was not that Great. The Mara was Cloudy and the sun disappeared to set behind the clouds.
Returned to Camp, had dinner, chatted for a little bit with the Group before turning in. Did enjoy see the Starry Skies in the southern Hemisphere. (Did not see the same, when I visited Australia in 1997).
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Last Night was quite Chill. Purchasing the Blanket from the Best Camping folks made sense (for the first time !). Guess the Plains are hotter during the Day and cooler during the Night. After Coffee we left for our Morning Game Drive at 6:30 AM. Saw a Couple of Hot-Air Balloons in the Sky. If it is going to be colder in the Balloon (due to the altitude), no sense in my taking the trip. I have not Carried any Warm Clothing. (Heck, I'm visiting Africa, not Antartica !)
The Plains of the Mara were dotted with Wildebeest. Spotted a Giraffe with her Calf. Should turn out to be a nice Picture. Spotted a Sleeping Male Lion. Probably tired from the previous night's hunt. The Cat did not Care for our presence. Though I took some pictures, I do not think they were great shots. Returned to Camp around 9 AM for breakfast. Since I had a light dinner last night, I gorged myself on Toast/Butter/Jam. (What else is a Vegetarian to do ?) After borrowing a Compact Mirror from a Campmate, I attempted a Shave. The two Frenchmen who were Brushing their teeth near the Single Tap (that all of us had to use) took turns holding the Mirror for me ! (Nice Gesture) Given the Circumstances, I managed a Pretty Decent Shave without nicking myself.
We left for our Second Game Drive of the Day at 10:30 AM. We spotted the SAME Male Lion Still Sleeping. (He will probably do that until Sunset, I guess) Took some wildebeest pictures. (The Driver had also got the Assistant Chef to keep some conversation going in Swahili while the game drive was on) The driver stopped to pick some wood for our nightly campfire. When he started repeating this with Increasing frequency, I made my displeasure clear. We had spent the better part of an hour going off the Track to acquire firewood. I don't have a Problem with them doing this on their own time. I certainly have a Problem with it, if it cuts into our game viewing time.
Most of my fellow campers were quite tongue tied on this. |
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