| Submitted by: Gopal VenkatUnited States |
| Submission Date: 04 February 2005 |
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One of the advantages of going with Best Camping is that one does not have to pack in a Sleeping Bag.
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Went to bed last night around 9 PM (Since we were to leave Camp at 6:30 AM for an early morning Game Drive). By the time I got used to the ambient noises (Wind Blowing against the tent, Animal / Bird / Insect Noises, leaves Dropping from Trees Above on to the Tent etc.) it was 1 AM ! Slept for around 5 hours. On the breakfast Table, the cook informed us that an Elephant had been scavenging around 1 AM. A lost Photo-OP ? My Camp-mates think not !!
After a Cup of tea we left for the morning drive. Took a few shots of the sunrise and its effect on Kili's Peak. After driving for a Couple of Kilometres, we spotted a single elephant. Must've been the one that was probably disappointed at our Camp last night.
The Plains around Amboseli are beautiful in the Morning. While the eastern side of the plain is bathed in sunlight, the sky over the western plains still retains the Blue/Grey of the dawn. Makes for a Great Photograph. We spotted a few more animals and birds (refer to the Photo list) (3rd roll). One of the other drivers had told peter (our driver) that a lion was spotted in the vicinity. We were off in pursuit. On the way we spotted hippos lying in a small pool. None would oblige us by coming out and posing !! We drove all over in our search for the elusive King of the beasts. When we gave up and started our return to camp, we spotted a herd of elephants. We got as close as 100 metres. Off-road driving is prohibited and hence we could not go any closer to these magnificent creatures. We all took a couple of pictures. Some of the larger elephants notices us presence and started trumpeting indicating a sign of discomfort (in our presence) especially since they had 2 young ones. We left them and drove back to Camp. Breakfast was served on our return to Camp. Being a Vegetarian, I nourished myself on Toast, Butter, Baked Beans and topped it off with some coffee.
Our Second drive of the Day commenced at 10 AM. We drove to a nearby Masai Village. Here for a fee of Ksh 500 one can visit the Village and take unlimited pictures of the people. The Masai do not like their Pictures taken otherwise. Smart move by the Masai. An example of commercialism meeting Culture. (Though I'm positive that the Culture is the loser in this process) How else can you explain a Masai wearing a Money Belt (the tourist Type) under his Masai Clothes or the fact that a Bunch of Trousers and Shirts were left to dry on the walls of one of their Huts !
The Guide (a Masai) took us around the Village. The Huts (made of dried Cow Dung) are arranged in a Circle. Inside this large Circle of Huts is a Smaller Circle made up of thorns and branches. Inside this smaller circle the cattle and sheep are penned for the night. Four Families comprising of 150 + members live in about 25 Huts. They showed us ways of making a Fire (the natural way), did a Masai dance (done to commemorate a lion kill) and (of Course) tried to sell us various trinkets. A word of advice to avid Shoppers. Whatever is quoted is a fool's Price. (i.e.; Only a fool would pay that) Start your Bargaining at 10 % (YES, TEN) of the Quoted Price.
Their dresses (men and Women) are quite colourful though. Took a bunch of pictures with an Enhancing Filter (to bring out the reds and oranges) with Kilimanjaro in the Background. Drove from the Masai Village to the Longwye Swamp. Saw Herds of Elephants, Zebras too numerous to Count and assorted small Game. This Swamp is outside the Lodge (Amboseli) Area. It was about 10 Kilometres from our Camp. On our return to the Camp observed numerous air Funnels (Tornadoes ?) kicking up (and subsequently dying out) all over the plains. Finally we managed to see a Hippo Standing UP. Took some pictures of that and eventually returned to Camp around 1 PM. During the evening drive, the driver was planning to go in search of the elusive lion. Had Lunch (Potatoes, Some Vegetable Stew and Salad). Since it was Just around 2 PM, I decided to have a siesta before the 4 PM game drive. Finally did get to use the Long Drop.
Toilets in these Parks (especially in Camp grounds) are usually deep pits dug in the ground and covered up except for a bunch of small Holes. (about 6-8 inches in diameter) Tin sheets are then constructed around each of these holes in the ground, so as to guarantee privacy. All of them even have a door with a lock. These are the Bathroom facilities one gets to use in the Campgrounds. Although Toilet Paper is available in these Camps, it is NOT to be taken for Granted. I carried my OWN Roll. Since these Pits are at least 10 Feet Deep, the name Long Drop.
(Sorry, couldn't resist explaining)
Had a Good siesta. After a Cup of tea, we departed for the evening game drive and to search for the Lion. Spotted a bunch of Giraffes (7 Adults and 3 Young) quite close. After what seemed an eternity in our lion search, we came upon a small herd of elephants in a small swamp. Trying to take a NATURAL Mud Bath. There was a Baby Amongst them and that proved to be main attraction. The Baby Elephants are ADORABLE. We drove further and spotted lesser and greater flamingoes. I thought the lake was Amboseli lake. The Driver (Peter) had a different Opinion. Based on what I've read about flamingoes moving to Amboseli, I think I'm right.
The LION did not materialize. Took a few good shots of the sunset. Today being the full Moon, it was equally spectacular. (These Pictures did come out well)
Unfortunately Kili was under a cloud cover for the entire day. Guess we were extremely lucky last evening to get a clear shot of the peak. Returned to Camp and had dinner around 7 PM. Chatted around for a little bit with my other Campmates before turning in. We leave tomorrow morning around 7:30 for Nairobi.
The afternoon Siesta did not do me any good. My Jet lag and the Ambient Sounds kept me awake till 1 AM. During this time in a Great Display of Bravado, I decided to use the Bathroom. The Moment I stepped out of my tent, the landscape was fabulous. Being a Full-Moon Night, it was well lit. Before I could walk HALF the 50 Yards to the Bathroom, I perceived some noises in the Bushes ahead and proceeded to accomplish my Purpose at the nearest BUSH !! On getting back to within 5 Yards of my tent, I whistled (nonchalantly !) so that anyone who was listening would realize my Singular feat of Bravery ! (NOT !!)
If I have to Camp out for 6 More days in Kenya and 5 More in Tanzania, I better find a way to lull myself to sleep amidst the ambient sounds, instead of staying up till 1 AM to see if the various participants are synchronizing their Notes !!
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Got up at 6 AM. At the breakfast Table I exchanged e-mail Ids (The Information age equivalent of Business Cards) with my Camp-Mates. We left Camp at 7:20 AM. Before leaving we contributed around Ksh 400 (Approx. US $ 7) each and divided it up, so that the Cook was given Ksh 500 and the driver Ksh 1100. The Typical tipping rates for drivers are $5 (Ksh 250 280) per day of game watching per person. The Cook was given roughly $2 Per Person. The Cook was Happy.
Since 3 of u were heading back to Nairobi and one was continuing to Tsavo, Peter was to drive us to a mid-way point on the Nairobi-Mombasa route (A Place Called EMALI Place of Wilderness) from where the Nairobi bound folks would hop into another Van (waiting for us at Emali) while peter continued to Tsavo.
We had to drive through Amboseli (we had tented on the Far end of the entrance to the park) to go to Emali. The Number of elephants I saw overwhelmed me. I shall remember this for a long time. The drive for the most part was scenic. It reminded me of roads stretching in a straight line for miles on end. The Dirt Tracks (which Pass for roads here) were just that. Since we were in a Hilly area, once could se these tracks stretch all the way to the top of a hill before dropping off. The Vast Expanse on either side of these roads was plains, Masai People tending Cattle and Occasional Wildlife.
I was sitting in the back (over the wheels, but in the centre of the Bench Seat). The Agony started from the time we left the park entrance till the time we reached Emali. Peter tried his best to avoid the major bumps by slowing down appropriately. But when 90% of the road (the Track) is full of Holes (calling them Potholes would be an Insult) there is little one can do. It was probably similar to riding a Camel or a Horse (Bare-Assed). When I finally caught sight of the paved Nairobi- Mombasa road near Emali, my joy was indescribable. (Agony and the Ecstasy No offense to Graham Greene would briefly sum up this ride)
I don't have a Problem with the Parks authority not paving the roads inside the Game parks. The least they can do I develop roads between parks and between parks and cities. If they continue to disregard this issue, then it is only a matter of time before the goose that lays the golden eggs is killed. (Tourism is the Principal Foreign Exchange earner for Kenya). The Option of flying between parks or between parks and the Cities is just for those 'Conde Nast' Travellers. Not for the average folks who form the bulk of tourism to this country.
On reaching Emali, we thanked Peter for being a Good Guide and Game driver. We then departed for Nairobi. My Exhilaration on travelling on a paved road, prompted a short Nap (30 Minutes) on the ride back to Nairobi.
We reached the Best Camping Offices around 12:30 PM. Chatted with Shiraz (the owner) before picking up my suitcase and heading to the 680 hotel. For the money I pay (US $45/Day), this is the worst place I could be in. There is no Fan or Air-Conditioner in the room. The Wash Basin (Sink) takes ages to drain (it gets flooded easily) and the Shower Stall has water dripping from the Shower Stall of the room above !!! The Only reason people choose this Hotel is for the Central location. One reason for the location could be because it is run by the Government. Either way, take this as a last resort.
The Hotel Management and the Tour Operator strongly advised me to keep all my valuables (Camera /Passport /Money /Air Tickets etc.) in the Safety Locker Provided in each room at no extra charge. I was also advised by the locals the being cheap (by not taking a Cab after 6 PM) would very likely not ruin my Vacation. And the Owner of one of the bookstores I visited, told me to remove my watch and put in my trouser pocket lest I present an attractive target to muggers. This is for a 17 Year old Seiko Watch with a NEW Strap. All of this in the City Centre. I was also told to Carry only Credit Cards and no Cash Whatsoever on my person.
After locking up my stuff in the safe, I strolled for a little walk (it was around 3 PM) to the Thorn tree café. Returned to the hotel around 5 PM. The Drive over the mud Tracks (to Amboseli and Back) had put a fine layer of dust on my Body, the Bags I carried and Especially the Camera Equipment. Since restaurants don't serve dinner till 7 PM, I spent the ensuing 2 Hours, cleaning the dust off all of my Possessions. Had the Hotel Bug Spray my room before I left for dinner. walked 400-500 Yards to the Minar Restaurant. As this was the first Proper Meal since the day before I left New York City (Sep 2, 1998) I decided to have a Go at it. In spite of all my eating, the bill came to Ksh 720 (US $ 12.50). |
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